But, the low profile of Jethro’s Restaurant and Bar in downtown Lancaster has become somewhat high style as it made the glossy pages of Bon Appétit Magazine’s September 2002 issue which featured "neighborhood restaurants" throughout the country. It is the only restaurant in Central Pennsylvania that is mentioned. Actually, it is one of only three restaurants in the entire state that is mentioned. (The other two are in Philadelphia.)

Jethro’s menu touts itself as an innovative American restaurant. It is located in a compact, old neighborhood in what was a corner bar not far from the center of town. Enter the building through the main door and you’re immediately in the middle of the streetcar-sized bar. The dining room is in the back room, a straight shot through the bar.

Dark wood and snug fitting tables give the tiny dining room a charming bistro-like feel. Picture lights illuminate local artwork on the walls while ceiling fans hover above to add to the warmth. Cozy not cramped is the style. Tables topped with crisp white tablecloths are simply ornamented with cobalt blue Saratoga Spring water bottles holding daisies. A mirrored panel turns into a wine rack above.

Anxious, the bartender seemed to have jumped over the bar and right to the end of our table to take our before-dinner drink order. That was a sign of the staff’s efficiency that we would enjoy throughout the evening. Affordable nice wines and lager on tap are staples at Jethro’s, as are specialty drinks like Jethro’s Martini — Stoli & Lillet served up with orange.

For starters, we found the Herbed Tomato Soup ($5.00) hearty and earthy with chunks of carrots, celery, and onions adding to the depth of the tomato base. A goat cheese crouton provided the perfect balance. A house special pasta appetizer of rotini with chicken was laced in a delicate cream sauce. Having a bit of a pasty consistency, a less successful appetizer was the Rumaki ($5.50), chicken livers and water chestnuts wrapped in bacon and then broiled.

Like any great neighborhood restaurant, light fare is offered as well as full dinner entrees. Most light fare selections at Jethro’s are anything but light. It took a lot for one dining partner to work her way through two huge Burritos ($11.95) made of flour tortillas and packed with black bean puree, smoked salmon, and goat cheese. But the complement of roasted tomato mint-salsa kept
her going.

Spago chef Wolfgang Puck became world renowned when he created his smoked salmon pizza with caviar one night when his kitchen ran out of bread to serve with the fish. Jethro’s special pizza had smoked salmon teamed with cucumbers and capers and was as celebrated in our minds the night that we had it.

For $12.95, crispy cornmeal coated catfish crowned with intoxicating tomato-tequila butter was another light fare winner. Someone told me that the Jethro’s Burger ($8.95) was really something. Served open face on baguette slices and embellished with our choice of port wine rosemary sauce or an alterative bearnaise sauce, the savory, grilled coating of the one-half pound burger yielded to a juicy interior that was satisfyingly flavorful.

That same port wine rosemary sauce or bearnaise sauce can grace a Filet Mignon entree ($22.95). Prepared as ordered and velvety in texture, melting morsels of the medium-rare filet were sumptuous. An abundance of broccoli, cauliflower, and thick sliced red potatoes were served on the side. The daily fish special entree was Seared Tuna, also prepared as ordered — rare — the only way to taste the flavor of the quality tuna. The flavor came through. Sauteed Breast of Duck ($18.95), with plum sauce and sweet vanilla glaze, again prepared rare, unfortunately did not fare as well, as the texture was a bit leathery.

An outstanding entree was grilled hoisin barbeque sauced Lamb Tenderloins ($21.95) served with Asian noodles and snow peas that were showered with that perfectly equal balance of soy and sesame. Entrees are served with a breadbasket full of warm French bread and Jethro’s classic Mediterranean Tapenade spread, heady with olives and a hint of anchovies. For the very meek, butter triangles are also served with the bread. At $4 and $5, salads with mixed greens and seasonal greens with interesting dressings are ala carte.

All desserts are made on site — the likes of cranberry orange cheesecake, banana cake and an ethereal pumpkin layer cake. Enhance your dessert with a "KGB" (coffee with Kahlua, Grand Marnier, and brandy) and you’ll be in heaven.

For a change, stray from your neighborhood in Harrisburg and take a trip to Jethro’s in Lancaster. It’s a blend of low profile and slight high style that you will enjoy.

Jethro’s Restaurant
and Bar Checklist
First & Ruby Streets, Lancaster, PA
299-1700

©1990-2003 Copyright ScotGiambalvo.com. “MODE Weekly™”, and “MODEweekly.com™”  are trademarks of Scot Giambalvo.
All rights reserved. Copying content from this site without permission is illegal. Linking to this site as if it was your own is just plain rude.
Click here for usage/link permission.