Roadside America is more than just a train layout. The world’s greatest indoor miniature village, as it’s billed, covers 1500 square feet. It fills a building and consists of thousands of hand-made models of every type imaginable. Then, there are the trains. Trains run constantly through the display, and visitors get to run some themselves. The scene is an America of a bygone era, seen from the vantage point of another bygone era. It’s rustic, and it is old fashioned, and it is more than a little bit hokey, but that just adds to the appeal.

Walking through the door into the display provides a view that is certain to produce at least a "wow!" Running water, rushing trains, circling planes greet your eyes, all at 3/8 inch-per-foot scale. The display guide that is included with your admission points out various details. A cesspool being dug (Really! When is the last time you saw that in miniature?), a model butcher delivering door to door, followed by the model village’s model dogs, replicas of historic buildings, a coal mine, the Luray Caverns—if it was part of small town life between 1880 and 1960, it might be there; there is so much detail that you’re bound to keep circling the display finding other tidbits that are amusing or cool. Then comes the "Night Pageant," but we’ll get to that later.

Laurence Geiringer, who began building models as a child sometime before 1920, created Roadside America. His hobby grew to a point where it became a Christmas-time display in a fire hall, before moving to its own building to become a year-round tourist attraction. Geiringer died in 1963, leaving behind an amazing creation, which is operated and maintained by his wife’s family.

The display does show its age a bit, but that adds to its charm. When you consider the display has existed in this form since 1963, a little wear and tear is understandable. In an era when even pumping gas is computerized and "interactive," it is amazing to see something that was done the hard way, with real wire, little motors and switches, and lots of ingenuity.

After you have looked at everything from a few different angles, from three different viewing levels, pushed a button to run the streetcar, and the circus parade, and the cable cars, and the blacksmith shop, and rung the church bells, and pretended that pushing said button takes some special skill only you possess, it’s time for the "Night Pageant." It’s really something to see—you might even stick around to watch it twice, just so you believe it.

The announcement that the pageant is about to begin tells you where to stand, then lighting effects take the whole display through sunset into the night, and back to sunrise. As always, the detail is amazing. The lights in the stores go out first—the coal mine never stops. Homes go dark later, and the stars come out across the ceiling. Then the farms rise first as the colors of sunrise begin to build in the east. Simulated wind blows the American flag over the Statue of Liberty, painted on the wall. The "sun" continues to rise, and the display wakes up, until day returns. The whole event is accompanied by narration and the dulcet tones of Kate Smith singing "God Bless America." It’s moving, even if you’re not a Flyers fan. Okay, not moving—really, it’s pretty silly—but you have to see it.

Roadside America is fun and different. It’s the realization of what every 10-year-old boy thinks his basement should look like the first time he gets a train set. It’s not just a guy thing though. My five-year-old daughter loved it. In fact, she has asked to go back at least once a day for a week.

What else is in Shartlesville?

Shartlesville is a little town with a surprising array of tourist stuff. Besides Roadside America, there are antiques, the PA Dutch Gift Haus, a great diner, and a choice of two family-style "all you can eat" dining rooms.

A run east to Shartlesville offers most of the things you find in Lancaster County without the traffic, or the indifferent service. Shartlesville sits directly on Route 78 at exit 23, about halfway between Harrisburg and Allentown. There is a collection of signs to everything directly at the exit ramp that could be an attraction itself. Take your pick!

Roadside America is located in Shartlesville, about 50 miles east of Harrisburg at Exit 23 on route 78. Admission is $4.50 for Adults, $4.00 for Senior Citizens; Children age 6-11 are $2.00 and age 5 and under are free. Hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Weekdays, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Weekends, earlier and later in the summer. Telephone:610-488-6241

Roadside America
Shartlesville, PA

Where to eat:
• Blue Mountain Family Restaurant 610-488-0353

Where to stay:
• Budget Hotel 610-488-1578

What else to do:
• Bashore and Stoudt Country Winery Shop

• The Sheepskin Shop

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