by Sue Barry

Go for the soup specials. Go for the steak dinners. Leave room for dessert and leave some of the other offerings go. The recently opened Steelton restaurant, Brasserie 29, had us leaving with mixed reviews. While some items were outstanding, others were so-so.

Two recently sampled soup specials were impressive. A creamy, dreamy mushroom soup fascinated the taste buds with a deep earthy smokiness and rich character; while another soup featuring fine-textured crumbled sausage in a light broth carrying large chunks of carrots, tomatoes, and red bell peppers had just the right subtle flavors. Served in oversized white bowls, rims garnished in confetti herb flakes, the presentation matched the taste.

If you are a beef eater, you will be pleased at Brasserie 29. The difference between the queen and king cut of Prime Rib is more than worth the $1.00 price tag ($13.95 queen cut; $14.95 king cut, $19.50 brasserie cut). Succulent and flavorful, it is a standard on the menu every day of the week. The Tournedos ($18.00), consist of two delicate and velvety boursin cheese stuffed medallions, perfectly tender and moist. And, if you think blackening a Tenderloin ($18.50), would desecrate a fine piece of beef, think again. It simply adds dimension and sears in juices.

The Brasserie 29 owners are pulling from a number of different cuisines, unique to each individual dish. But, maybe they are pulling too much. Texas, the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Mexico, New Orleans and the Far East, plus others are represented. The Cajun seasoning on the chicken breast in the Cajun Chicken Oscar ($17.95), overpowered the delicate lump crabmeat on top and asparagus on the side. It was finished with a bearnaise sauce that was barely detectable.

Conversely, there appeared to be some apprehension in the kitchen when rubbing the jerk spices on the Caribbean Pork Lion Chops ($15.95). Where pork can hold its own with heavy spices, the authentic flavor of allspice and thyme with the bite of Scotch bonnet chiles that we so craved, was way too timid. Also, lacking flavor was the Seafood Rosette ($14.95) with shrimp, huge scallops over bow tie pasta in a garlic parmesean red sauce. Vis-a-vis, the farm-raised Caribbean Catfish ($13.50), sported spices and flavors that did not dominate a refined light catfish complemented by strips of fresh mango.

Salads and bread are not served with entrées, however an unadorned house-made provolone cheese ball is served with crackers upon arrival. It may have tasted better, like many cheeses, if served at room temperature instead of straight from the fridge. You could order a house salad for $3.95, but it is not really needed.

A choice of baked potato, rice pilaf, or pomme du jour and vegetable du jour accompanies the majority of the entrées. Go with either the baked potato with the usual sour cream topping or the pomme du jour depending on the chef’s whim. The rice pilaf headed the category of food rated dull. But when was the last time you saw a stuffed tomato? You may find it at Brasserie 29 as the vegetable du jour as we did.

Appetizers that are apt to be shared are the mild Baked Brie ($8.75), filled with raspberry chutney, and a pleasingly bold Sausage Crustini ($6.25), a blend of Italian sausage and roasted red bell pepper baked on Italian bruschetta bread.

Brasserie 29 used to be the site of a family restaurant and has a huge banquet facility, very noticeable from the drive up. As you enter the building, a pleasant bar and bartender await. Off to the right is the dining room where modest tables are fully dressed in red and green cloth and topped with subtle candlelight. Walls are covered with artwork for sale and booths are dated but roomy. The plants that serve as room dividers do nothing to accent the place, and while the ceiling tiles show their age through wear, the wait staff does not.

Desserts are made in house, daily, and you may be offered the likes of a Raspberry Cheesecake Ganache (a combo of chocolate and cream). Alone on a plain white plate, full of flavor and free of garnish lay the large slice of cheesecake. As explained by the General Manager, "if we don’t have the right garnish, we don’t use any garnish."

Location
Easy to find

Parking
On site parking lot

Handicapped Access
Available

Exterior Appearance
Large restaurant

Initial Interior
Bar to left, Dining room to right

Reservations Necessary
Not necessary

Preferred Dining Attire
Casual

Wait (to be seated)
None

Wait (for service)
None

Lighting
Subtle

Dining Area Appearance
Slightly dated

Noise
Fine

Climate
Fine

Tables
Modest

Chairs
Comfortable

Booths
Roomy

Table setting
Full

Your meal
Good

Automatically served
House-made Provolone cheese ball with crackers

Cocktails
Full bar, reasonable wine list

Soups
Smoky mushroom soup

Salads
None with entrée

Main Course
Cajun Chicken Oscar

Desserts
Raspberry Cheesecake Ganache

Coffees/Teas
Good

Staff Attitude
Friendly but unseasoned

Staff Appearance
Casual

Hospitality
Welcoming

Cleanliness
Clean

Wash Rooms
Clean

Crowd (Qty)
Few tables filled

Crowd (attitude)
Sociable

Food (portions)
Large

Overall Service
Friendly