A mural of the map of the Mediterranean along the entrance wall. A look at the featured catch of the day, sitting on ice in an open display case. The bustling activity in the demonstration kitchen. It all combines perfectly to form great Mediterranean dining. Even the cobalt blue stemware dotting the lightly colored linen clothed tables evokes the color of the Mediterranean sea.

Located in an innocuous brick building (College Square, across from F & M College in Lancaster), Gibraltar is anything but dull. The roomy dining room is open, fresh, and airy, with tile and light wood accents. Windows cover one wall from floor to ceiling, helping to create an atmosphere where potted plants and discerning diners thrive. It is simply understated elegance.

Deeply steeped in the flavor of the sea and a heady garlic aroma, the Fisherman’s Chowder ($8) — a menu staple — was captivating. The new fall menu was introduced just two days before our latest visit so we were apprehensive that something new we may choose from the menu may not be fine tuned yet. We soon came to realize that we should have left that notion on the door step.

Having just returned from Spain, I had to try the Antipasti Salad ($9), which had a bit of a Spanish twist with Serrano, Spanish salt-cured, air-dried ham, and spicy Chorizo sausage. Serrano rivals its Italian counterpart, Proscuitto, both of which I adore. The Serrano at Gibraltar was not exactly the same as I experienced in Spain (and I ate a lot of Serrano in Spain) but robust yet sweet and very tasty none-the-less. We found the Chorizo well-cured and not too spicy, but set off nicely by marinated artichokes, roasted bell pepper, shaved reggiano, extra virgin olive oil, and aged balsamic vinegar. This antipasti was perfect with crostini and the house-baked artisan bread that is served to each table. A petite house salad comes with entrées, but other salad offerings include a Greek salad ($6), Caesar ($5.50), and seasonal salad.

Gibraltar lists their appetizers under the heading of Tapas — which in Spain are selections of morsels served to accompany wine. Gibraltar tapas are more than mere tidbits, a few of which are intended to be shared. Calamari seems to be on every menu around the area, including Gibraltar’s, but we never tire of it. Flash Fried Calamari ($7.50) of perfect crisp-tenderness were dipped in the accompanying walnut aioli and mustard vinaigrette.

Foie Gras is an appetizer I cannot pass up whenever I find it on a restaurant menu (unfortunately not often enough in Central Pennsylvania restaurants). Gibraltar’s Seared Foie Gras ($11.50) is served with braised greens, winter squash fritters, in an apricot demi-glace, and is pure heaven. So many people I talk with are "put off" by foie gras as it is duck liver, but if they just try the sultry, buttery, silky flavor, I know they, too, would love it. To me it is one of the best foods on earth.

Not every dish is such a splurge, however. Pasta dishes are offered at half portion sizes, a feature to be applauded. At a half portion, the Fruit de la Mer ($21 full, $14 half) was absolutely loaded with jumbo sea scallops, rock shrimp, mussels, lobster, and crabmeat adrift in a tarragon perfumed, buttery lobster buerre blanc with leeks. A hearty Rigatoni ($18 full, $12 half) turned silky served with America’s finest oysters from the Puget Sound. They almost had a fruity flavor. Swiss chard, tomatoes, pancetta, and cream offset this dish nicely.

It’s getting to be Osso Buco season, time to start braising those veal shanks. A richly satisfying shank served at Gibraltar took up the entire oversized plate, served with spaghetti squash, baby root vegetables, house-dried tomatoes, and a quick reduction of pan juices. Don’t let the waitress take the dish away until you indulge in the gratifying marrow inside the bone. After all, Osso Buco mean, "bone with a hole" — and there is a ton of flavor in that little hole in the bone.

A thick Center-Cut (the best of the best) Filet Mignon ($26.50) was also excellent, velvety, moist and lean, served perfectly as ordered with earthy celery root mashed potatoes, roasted artichokes, and frizzled onion. The kitchen sends out Pan Seared Duck Breast ($24), rich and moist, medium degree of doneness with that same appetizer of opulent Foie Gras as an apropos accompaniment.

But, the entrée that stole to show (and us almost stealing to pay for it) was the fresh, whole stately Pompano ($29). As seen in the display, the eyes were full not sunken, the scales tight and the skin wet. When it was time to dine, the flesh of this prize catch was white, delicate and sweet and very easy to eat. Commendable house made smoked salmon and seafood ravioli drizzled with pumpkin oil and a side of tender crisp asparagus made this dish irresistible in spite of the price tag.

Desserts are also over the top with a fulfilling Tiramisu Cheesecake ($6) and a frozen, creamy Chocolate Mousse Tower ($6.50) rising to the occasion. Add to all of this, a variety of lovely wines from a wine list that has won the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, making this dinner a truly memorable Mediterranean delight.

Location
Easy to find

Parking
Adjacent parking lot

Handicapped Access
Available

Exterior Appearance
Brick building, colorful awnings

Initial Interior
Long wall mural of the Mediterranean

Reservations Necessary
Preferred

Preferred Dining Attire
Stylish casual

Wait (to be seated)
None

Wait (for service)
None

Lighting
Subtle

Meal-time Music
N/A

Dining Area Appearance
Open, airy

Noise
Fine

Climate
Fine

Tables
Large

Chairs
Comfortable

Booths
Comfortable

Table setting
Full

Your meal
Excellent

Automatically served
House made artisan bread

Cocktails
Award winning wine list

Soups
Fisherman’s Chowder

Salads
Antipasti with Serrano ham and Chorizo Sausage

Main Course
Pompano w/ Smoked Salmon Seafood Ravioli

Desserts
Chocolate Mousse Tower

Coffees/Teas
Cappuccino

Staff Attitude
Knowledgeable

Staff Appearance
Classic

Hospitality
Welcoming

Cleanliness
Very Clean

Wash Rooms
Clean

Crowd (Qty)
Full

Crowd (attitude)
Sociable

Food (portions)
Large

Overall Service
Friendly

Payment Accepted
All major Credit Cards