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A Matter of Taste
The Left Bank
120 N. George Street, York
843-8010

by Sue Barry
 

The Left Bank is right on. Right on target with quality, taste, atmosphere, and service. Our most recent visit to this bistro-like, New American restaurant in York found us delighting in the experience . . . once we got there. Get through the harried Rt. 30 construction and relax with fine cocktails and wines served by a waiter who is welcoming and thorough as he explains the menu, making confident recommendations, telling you the fine details of the specials and the chef’s preferred cooking methods.

The restaurant’s main dining room is casual with a touch of sophistication. It’s name-sake or not, The Left Bank radiates similarities to the Left Bank in Paris (the areas on the shore of the left bank of the river Seine) — intellectual and discriminating. Floor to ceiling book-filled shelves are focal points as they form partitions here-and-there to help keep tables intimate. Black framed French posters line white-washed walls. Tables are topped with white cloths covered with large diagonally placed squares of black vinyl — handy for wiping, not for swirling wine.

Appetizer choices take on a bit of the sea as with Sautéed Margarita Shrimp and Crab Cocktail ($9), Key Lime Layered Lump Crab, Tomato & Avocado Compote ($9), Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels with Garlic Wine Splash ($7), and Chilled Jumbo Shrimp with Old Bay Cocktail Sauce ($9). Our waiter’s recommendation, a very good Flash Fried Calamari with Balsamic Peperonata Sauce ($5), had not a tough chew in the batch. The lone poultry/meat appetizer ended up being the starter standout — delicately sliced Crispy Panko Duck with Mandarin Orange Vinaigrette and Soy Syrup ($8), served appropriately rare.

For a lighter entrée, petite portions of pasta are offered in addition to regular size dinners. Whatever size you choose, make sure you choose The Left Bank’s Shellfish Bouillabaisse with Rustic Orchietta Pasta ($15/$20). The Orchietta shaped pasta (little ears) holds just enough sauce with every bite to complement the abundant shellfish. Housemade Crab and Mozzarella Ravioli ($13/$18) were shear pillows from heaven and richly satisfying with the accompanying Tomato Garlic Aurore Bath. As with these seafood pasta dishes at The Left Bank, it appears as though the sea is here to stay.

And stay it does with another specialty from the deep. An entrée, Crab Stuffed Jumbo Shrimp ($24) served with parmesan risotto, julienne vegetables, spinach, and crab essence, left a bona fide hefty meat eater quite satisfied with the quantity and flavor. A typical filet of salmon ($19) turned uncommonly good, as it was lemon-marinated and tied together for more even cooking then roasted, served with asparagus, parmesan risotto and tomato vinaigrette.

Of three Chalkboard Special entrees, a taste of the sea was chosen one more time and one more time it came through. Grilled medium rare, the Pesto-dressed Tuna Loin Steak ($22), was quite special as it was served with potato, zucchini and squash pancakes, tomato medley salsa with artichoke chardonnay beurre blanc. Land lovers rejoice too, as a savory 8 oz. Filet Mignon ($21) was grilled perfectly as specified and paired up with horseradish mashed potatoes, onion crisps and a mushroom demi-glace. Grilled Herb Chicken ($17) and Pan Bronzed Chicken Scallopini ($16) are the highlighted poultry entrées.

Large white plates serve as palates for the magnificent yet subtly presented dishes. Salads are not served with entrées, however an a la carte Market Greens Salad ($4) with ripe tomatoes, carrots, and cucumbers or a Petite Caesar Salad ($4) would be a good choice. Some other salad offerings could serve as light meals, like the Grilled Chicken Breast ($9) with pineapple wedge, berry vinaigrette, finessed fruit, and bibb lettuce.

The only flaw of our waiter for the night was his not serving us bread. Looking at the beautiful black-based triangular bottle of olive oil in the center of the table, we just kept waiting for the bread to be served. We had to ask. Shortly before our entrées arrived, soft football shaped rolls appeared on the table with ramekins of piped butter for those not caring for the olive oil enhancement.

Desserts are irresistible and super styled. An eggy thin-crusted Mocha Crème Brûlée was large enough to share as was the Hot Peach Torte. An intense Chocolate Chambord Cake was pure rapture.

When it’s all over, find your bill unobtrusively presented on your table in an old book taken from one of the many shelves,

The Left Bank serves lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday, and dinner only on Saturday. They are closed Sunday and Monday.

The Left Bank
Entrees - $16 – $26
Average Dining Time
60 minutes

Location
Easy to find

Parking
On street or lot

Handicapped Access
Yes

Exterior Appearance
American Bistro

Initial Interior
Bar

Reservations Necessary
On Weekends

Preferred Dining Attire
Casual/Stylish

Wait (to be seated)
None

Wait (for service)
None

Lighting
Subtle

Meal-time Music
Subtle

Dining Area Appearance
Bistro

Noise
Fine

Climate
Fine

Tables
Ample

Chairs
Sturdy

Booths
None

Table setting
Full

Your meal
Excellent

Automatically served
Soft Rolls w/Olive Oil or butter

Cocktails
Excellent

Salads
Mixed Greens

Main Course
 Shellfish

Desserts
Mocha Crème Brûlée

Coffees/Teas
Good

Staff Attitude
Knowledgeable & Attentive

Staff Appearance
Classic

Hospitality
Welcoming

Cleanliness
Very Clean

Wash Rooms
Clean

Crowd (Qty)
Packed

Crowd (attitude)
Sociable

Food (portions)
Ample

Overall Service
Very Good

Payment Accepted
All major Credit Cards



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