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Cheap Lunch With Betty
One Woman's Relentless Search For Good, Cheap Eats

Betty finds the Hill Side Café
589 Salem Road, Etters
938-6300

Betty’s been trying to find a steal, and has been coming up empty-handed for months. But guess what? Last week, on a trip down I-83 to meet a friend from York, I stumbled upon an old landmark, and realized it was time to come out of hiding and let my readers know about its transformation into one of Betty’s favorites. Just don’t tell too many folk, because lunch crowds make me a little peeved.

Shh! It’s the Hill Side Café, just across off Exit 15 of I-83 (the Lewisberry Exit) — the perfect place to catch up with friends from "down south" or "up north," depending on your geographic perspective. (Now remember, this isn’t Cold War Berlin, so it’s okay to cross a township border or two and get together with someone outside your neighborhood.) But if you’re from Harrisburg and you don’t have buddies from the White Rose City if you’re a Harrisburger, gather up some locals and venture forth, because this steakhouse is worth the ten-minute drive. And if you’re a West Shore dweller, you have no excuse at all — Betty just doesn’t want to hear about it.

This highway-side restaurant with a modest façade has recently undergone a major facelift. Once a hangout for those leather boys on motorcycles (Betty shudders to think), it’s now lined with fresh paint and lovely red vinyl booths. The servers are very welcoming and pleasant, and will have your cup of decaf in front of you before you can make your choice of entrée from the menu.

Go there hungry. The Double Bar Burger (a six-ounce serving of ground sirloin "piled high with hand and cheese") for $5.50 is served with fries and another side. I chose a side salad and it was crisp; the Parmesan pepper dressing was creamy and rich. But when I saw that burger — Betty’s idea of the divine — perfectly grilled and juicy and dripping over my hands as I tried to get my choppers around it.

My friend from York had the Italian Cheese Steak for $4.95 and couldn’t finish it, so I had it wrapped and polished it off later with the six o’clock news. It was sinful but I stole a few of her onion rings when she wasn’t looking; they were piping hot, lightly breaded, very homemade. The real topper was the Chocolate Chambord Cake. With a name like that, I hesitated to try it at lunch (I never drink before 5 p.m.). I’m here to tell you, whatever they put in that cake, it’s worth eating anytime. I haven’t craved chocolate since.

I checked out the dinner menu and saw that the steaks come in all cuts and sizes, and that another specialty of the house is ribs. Seafood is also high on their recommended list (the crab cakes, I’ve heard, are among the finest in the area).

And I’m planning to take my grandkids there when they’re in town, as the kiddies’ menu includes everything from grilled cheese at $2.75 to filet mignon for $10.25 (for the grandkids, I just might do it; you never know).

The atmosphere is warm and homey and I’m glad I ventured in. Just remember that if you are heading south down I-83 from Harrisburg toward York, after getting off at Exit 15 you have to turn first right past the Hardee’s and then right again at the sign for the Hill Side. After crossing the highway, make a left. You’re there.

Hill Side Café, Steaks, and Spirits, 589 Salem Road, Etters, PA 17310, 938-6300 or 938-3123.



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