- Beer
- Food

If you haven’t walked through those mammoth interior front doors of the Appalachian Brewing Company (ABC) in some time, it may be time to do it again. What’s the draw this time? ABC has the same great beer but now has a new, state-of-the-art kitchen and a new menu, moderately tweaked over the last six months.

A successful microbrewery that also serves the public as a dining establishment needs to find that delicate balance between the two arts of brewing remarkably good beer and running a decent restaurant. The two do not go hand-in-hand, and in fact, often can be counter productive. Hence the demise of numerous microbreweries around the country. ABC has been keeping that balance in check since they opened their doors in 1997, and now continuing with an investment in a new kitchen, strengthening their commitment to produce even better food.

ABC’s huge main dining hall strikes you as soon as you walk into the building. A wall of windows shields visitors from the enormous fermentation tanks holding fine beers such as Hinterland Hefe Weizen and Golden Mountain Lager. An L-shaped bar to the rear of the first floor is welcoming, as are the bartenders. With thirty seconds to spare at the end of happy hour, our bartender didn’t flinch when he charged us happy hour prices for our pale ale.

Table tents of brew and dessert listings sit atop the dining tables, occupying more room on the tables than the knife and fork wrapped in a paper napkin. Push aside those selection-helpers, salt and pepper, sugar, and saccharin, and dried flowers in empty beer bottles, and make room for some grand starters.

Large red chili tortillas are stuffed with refried beans, grilled yellow peppers, onions, chick peas, tomatoes and Monterey Jack cheese to form Grilled Vegetable Quesadillas ($5.95). Adding grilled chicken for an extra $1 is well worth it with a meaty chunk in every bite. A swirl of sour cream, strewn sliced scallions, and fresh salsa served in a firm radicchio leaf adds to the visual appeal of this popular dish.

To some, brews are not complete without hot wings. A dozen Brew Wings ($6.95) arrive in a lined heavy plastic basket, moderately meaty, extra crispy with an above-average heat factor — perfect. The traditional blue cheese and celery are needed.

A hint of garlic and white wine come together to form a savory broth for a ton of tiny and briny Mussels ($7.95). Ask for a side of bread to soak up the sauce and you’ll receive foccocia, a perfect complement. That same foccocia bread, lightly toasted, is piled with chunks of marinated portabella mushrooms, vine ripened Roma tomatoes, fresh basil, onions, and balsamic vinegar, then crowned with what appears to be a half a pound of feta cheese, in the Feta Brewchetta ($5.75).

By far, one of the best items on the menu is the Harvest Pizza ($8.25). For the price of a pizza parlor pizza, this veggie delight sports grilled yellow and sweet peppers, onions, artichoke hearts, Roma tomatoes, mozzarella, provolone and smoked gouda.

A couple of salads serve as a main course for light fare — a Caesar ($5.95), an oriental chicken salad ($7.95), and a fresh and tasty sirloin with grilled portabella and gorgonzola ($7.95).

Brewpub Favorites and OBX (a.k.a. seafood entrees) come with a delicious house salad of a variety of fresh leaf lettuces, olives, chickpeas, and baby corn crowded on a small white plate with a plastic cup of dressing vying for some room. The house dressing of balsamic vinaigrette is very good and pushed by the waiter.

The waiter we had was a little aloof the night of our latest visit. He was perceptive trying to stay on top of drinks, yet never seeming to clear the table. He was attentive in attempting to answer a question, but dismissed himself mid-sentence because his beeper went off. That was excusable, however — I don’t want anyone to be served cold food.

Southbounder Seafood Scampi ($15.95) highlighted scallops that were not overcooked (which happens so often), those same tiny mussels and shrimp with their heads still on — more like prawns — over linguini in a Chardonnay garlic sauce. The beer battered flounder, Fish & Chips ($8.95) was reminiscent of the fish and chips in England, hot and crispy served with thick cut pub fries and tarter. Served with malt vinegar on the side, the only thing missing was the newspaper wrapper.

Less successful was the 12 oz. NY Strip Steak ($14.95), as it was a bit more fatty than customary. The steak, however, was propped upon garlic mashed potatoes that were excellent, still having some of the skins on and not too garlicky. A very hearty dish, Thunderstorm Arabiatta ($11.95) consisted of penne pasta with pungent Portuguese chourico sausage, grilled chicken, and yellow peppers, topped with spicy arabiatta sauce. Portabella Ravioli ($10.95) topped with marinara sauce and parmesan was fairly basic — and, agreeable to the traditional person’s taste. Many of the entrees could have been warmer. Where was our waiter with the beeper?

For dessert, how does a Jamaican Strawberry Torte ($4.50) sound, or a Chocolate Midnight Kiss ($4.50)? — good enough to pass up a dessert brew for.

ABC’s new kitchen and menu offer much more variety than they could previously provide. But, on the new menu, I was surprised not see many beer pairings with the offerings — probably because the microbrews change often. If you noticed the prices, the customer is not paying any more for that state-of-the-art kitchen. As with their food and beer, ABC’s prices are quite palatable.

Appalachian Brewing Co.

Entrees - $8.95 - $14.95
Average Dining Time - 60 minutes

Location
Easy to find

Parking
Parking lot behind building

Handicapped Access
Yes

Exterior Appearance
Brick microbrew

Initial Interior
Mammoth doors into dining area

Reservations Necessary
Not accepted

Preferred Dining Attire
Casual

Wait (to be seated)
Yes, unless you go early

Wait (for service)
None

Lighting
Subtle

Meal-time Music
N/A

Dining Area Appearance
Vast warehouse

Noise
Chatty

Climate
Fine

Tables
Wooden with sculpted metal legs

Chairs
Sturdy

Booths
None

Table setting
Knife & Fork, paper napkins

Your meal
Good

Cocktails
Hinterland Hefe Weizen

Salads
ABC House Salad

Main Course
Fish & Chips

Desserts
Jamaican Strawberry Torte

Staff Attitude
Friendly

Staff Appearance
Clean and neat

Hospitality
Welcoming

Cleanliness
Good

Wash Rooms
Clean

Crowd (Qty)
Full

Crowd (attitude)
Spirited

Food (portions)
Perfect size portions

Overall Service
Friendly