Once, Harrisburgers were hard-pressed to find a good choice of restaurants — especially those with decent wine lists. Now, all one has to do is drive down Second Street to be tempted by many. But there are a couple that aren’t on "The Row" that recently have up-dated their menus and wine lists. One, The Maverick, is a staple once frequented mainly by state legislators and lobbyists, but now seeing more of a younger crowd. Another, Garrason’s, has been successful in the quiet way of "regulars," but has been overlooked by many others.

The subdued interior is a blend of rich maroon and dark green, with an abundance of rich hardwood trim and a long stretch of exposed brick. The antique mirrors are more art than anything else. There are tablecloths and you’ll find flowers in eclectic vases. Anchoring the dining area is a long tiled L-shaped bar with a jukebox. Upstairs was a more intimate non-smoking dining area styled with the same flair as the first floor, but offers a more comfortable conversation area for before the meal (perfect for meetings, we thought).

Short for Gary and Sons, Garrason’s was opened in August 1989. Gary Ulrich, owner, is a lifelong resident of Harrisburg and a graduate of John Harris High. After teaching for many years, he decided to try something new, and being a self-taught chef driven by a passion for food and wines, he opened the restaurant.

Gary and his son David are often found in the kitchen creating recipes. Staying current by changing the menu on a steady basis, and offering many daily specialties, the two are constantly on a lookout for new ideas and they welcome suggestions from their clientele. One of their most recent changes has been to the wine list, which now sizes up to some of the best in town.

Garrason’s menu is simple but thorough, featuring most traditional tavern fares but augmented by many specials. The appetizers were not the typical tavern fare, but included sausage and honey, shrimp and crab dip, artichoke crab melt, black bean soup, all in the $3.00 to $5.00 range. We started with the artichoke crab melt on pita, which was an excellent appetizer at a reasonable $6.25, and big enough for two. We then moved on to the main course.

The waitress recommended the Tavern Salad layered with grilled chicken. It was perfection — crispy green with tender hot chicken and the house honey ginger dressing, which is light and has a hint of ginger — possibly an alternative to the other ‘Burg favorite, Gazebo. (The dressing is sold at the tavern and will soon be available at the West Shore Farmers Market.)

Our other entrees were equally good. I’ve always respected the glory of the cheeseburger, despite its current dietary villain status, and Garrason’s version comes with sautéed mushrooms, onions, and peppers alongside a five-ounce patty of aged Black Angus beef. It was dripping with American cheese. My lunch date’s chicken BBQ pizza featured onions, peppers, and a delightful cheese blend, with grilled chicken over BBQ and tomato sauces.

Although we didn’t sample it ourselves, the marinated center cut sirloin steak which went by on a tray reminded us of the good old days at Harry’s. It looked to die for.

For a casual night with food and beverages that exceed your expectations of a tavern, Garrason’s could be the place for you. You can reach Garrason’s at: 232-2028.

Upon entering the lobby, my companion and I were cheerfully greeted by the suited maitre’d (Barron Fitz-Gerald, who comes to Harrisburg via the famed Rainbow Room in New York City), but felt perfectly comfortable in our casual attire. Within moments we were escorted to a cozy corner table and presented with a wine list, which is extensive, and includes "Forty under $40," certainly the list for my usual budget. Here you’ll find many more esoteric and carefully chosen California selections as well as the usual domestic varietals. If you’re feeling particularly plush, delve into the rest of the list. We did and enjoyed the buttery, oaky Ferrani-Carano Chardonnay. It’s worth the extra few dollars, and you can’t find it everywhere.

New owners Scott Lutz and Dave and Mark Thomas were preparing for their annual Seafood Festival, which is now in full swing, so we went for selections from the deep. My companion’s fried calamari was the best I’ve tasted in the area — light, crispy, not too salty, and tender. My clams Casino were also tender, delicately spiced and adorned with fresh veggies and just enough bacon that didn’t overwhelm the palate with salt. A great start.

We should have split one Caesar salad, but each had our own. Again, the flavors were arrestingly fresh. Not a true anchovy lover, I downed mine with gusto. There wasn’t a soggy crouton to be found. Mmm.

Then came the piece de resistance — one whole Maine lobster for my companion, one baked stuffed for me. A native of New England, I’ve been spoiled on fresh lobster from youth. This surpassed the baked stuffed version served up by one of my all-time favorite seafood restaurants on the North Shore of Boston. Had Daryl Hannah been present, she couldn’t have embarrassed herself any more than I did. Butter was dripping from my chin. I considered sucking the legs but decided I’d gone far enough by mopping up every last tidbit from the platter with the fresh roll.

The Maverick offers a variety of coffees, and if you can manage, you should save room for dessert. The chocolate chip cheesecake I ordered just so I’d know was so light and pleasing that I didn’t stop after my planned two bites.

The service was friendly and efficient, and every server had something good to say about the changes made recently after Lutz and the Thomas brothers acquired the restaurant last December. Jason O’Neill, beverage manager, spoke excitedly about the new digital grand piano whose ivories will be tickled by a variety of artists and styles, and their plans to expand the bar come fall.

The Maverick suffers from a reputation of being slightly overpriced. In fact, dinner entrees range from $9.25 (Fettucini Marinara) to $27.50 (Prime Filet Mignon and Broiled Crab Cake), and the portions are generous and sides included. It’s possible to eat at the Maverick without breaking the bank.

Check out the new atmosphere there and make a selection from the new 125-gallon lobster tank. You’ll save the airfare to Hyannis and go home as stuffed as my poor clawed beast was. You won’t regret it.

The Maverick Seafood Festival runs through June 17; for reservations call 233-7688.