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Harrisburg, Pennsylvania's online News, Opinion, Arts and Entertainment information archive, serving the PA Capital Region. |
| A Matter Of Taste |
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Gallo Rosso 392-5616 by Sue Barry
The menu carries some classic standards but bellows with innovation. For $3.00 per item per person, one can begin with a selection of antipasti to mix and match — tomatoes and mozzarella, marinated asparagus, grilled portabella salad or gorgonzola over crostini to name a few. The thinnest Focaccia ($5.00/$8.25) I’ve ever had anywhere arrives with the biggest flavor of fresh basil and fontina cheese. Calamari Fritti ($7.95) is fresh calamari fried in a seemingly tempura batter, and served with roasted vegetable salsa — a great diversion from marinara sauce — and enough to satisfy a party of four as an appetizer. Or, if that doesn’t get you started, how about a cup of Brodo ($5.50), an intoxicating seafood soup consisting of clams, shrimp, and garlic in fresh clam broth. The chef cooks up an authentic risotto, as the risotto with portabella, shiitake and crimini mushrooms, topped with fresh asparagus and asiago cheese is served al dente and slightly runny. This Risotto Con Funghi ($10.00/$14.95) makes me want to definitely try the Risotto with Lobster and Lemon ($19.95) the next time around. Many pasta dishes are offered in two sizes to please an array of appetites — an admirable consideration of the restaurant. Some of the pasta dishes, however are almost too good to order scaled down. A seafood favorite is Spaghetti Con Pesce ($14.00/$19.75) featuring spaghetti adrift in fresh clam broth with lobster, shrimp, clams and mussels, accented with peas and red peppers, hailing from the Adriatic shores. Triangoli ($9.00/$15.25), triangle-shaped pasta stuffed with wild mushrooms in a hearty tomato sauce with spicy sausage, is the ultimate pasta dish here as I actually find myself craving it for days until I can make my way to the restaurant. If you want to try the Triangoli and feel extra good that you’ve gotten the best deal in town go to Gallo Rosso on a Wednesday night and order the Pasta and Chianti special. You and your partner have a choice of a bottle of red wine from a limited number available, with a pasta dish from three choices that are regularly featured on the menu, a fresh and crisp green leaf dinner salad with a Belgian endive spear (try the gorgonzola blue cheese dressing), and crusty rolls — all for a total of $26.95. It’s an amazing bargain. And, Triangoli is one of the pastas featured. If there is not a flier on the tabletop or your server forgets to mention the Pasta and Chianti feature, do not be afraid to ask. All tables seem to sport wine bottles on Wednesday nights, whether patrons order the pasta and wine special or are subliminally seduced into ordering a bottle of wine from the extensive wine list, after seeing so many being opened.
For those who want to steak their claim in (or claim their steak), Pan Seared Aged Filet of Beef ($24.95) served with fried broccoli and gorgonzola cream is richly satisfying. And, any restaurant that offers a fantastic Osso Bucco ($26.95) has my heart. Gallo Rosso’s braised veal shanks with white wine and tomatoes, finished with veal demi-glaze is a prototype. Believe me, you will not mind spending that quarter of a C-note for these entrees, it is worth it. Just don’t think about Wednesday night’s Pasta and Chianti deal. Sautéed Sole ($19.95) lacked no soul, however light it was, gently pan-fried and served with garlic and parsley butter. One can choose from a selection of five fresh fish, grilled with extra virgin olive oil or lemon oil and served with crisp primavera vegetables. That ever-popular Patagonian Toothfish (a.k.a. Chilean Sea Bass) is one of these prime and delicate choices. If you were good and you opted for a demi-portion of pasta, you could still have room for Gallo Rosso’s Tiramisù. The traditional soaked lady finger, mascarpone filled dessert is plated in a contemporary manner and tastes succulent. If you weren’t good, and couldn’t resist a multi-course dinner here, it’s the Raspberry Gelato for you. With food this good at Gallo Rosso — me? I’m never good.
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Gallo Rosso Entrees - $12.00-$26.95 Average Dining Time 60 minutes Location Parking Handicapped Access Exterior Appearance Initial Interior Reservations Necessary Preferred Dining Attire Wait (to be seated) Wait (for service) Lighting Meal-time Music Dining Area Appearance Noise Climate Tables Chairs Booths Table setting Your meal Automatically served Cocktails Soups Salads Main Course Desserts Coffees/Teas Staff Attitude Staff Appearance Hospitality Cleanliness Wash Rooms Crowd (Qty) Crowd (attitude) Food (portions) Overall Service Payment Accepted |
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