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A Matter Of Taste

Gallo Rosso
337-339 N. Queen Street, Lancaster
392-5616

by Sue Barry

The name Gallo Rosso stands for red rooster. The restaurant Gallo Rosso, stands for the finest Italian Restaurant in Lancaster County. It is a sanctuary for those who are looking for more than the typical American-Italian fare. From the marble entryway to the tables cloaked with pink over white linen tablecloths, there is an aura of contemporary elegance. Long banquettes hug faux marble walls while tables for four are clustered and partitioned in the center of the relatively small main dining area. The restaurant’s din is fairly high, although not to the decibel it once was when this restaurant opened ten years ago. Favorable acoustic ceiling tiles and carpet installations improved the racket of those initial days.

The menu carries some classic standards but bellows with innovation. For $3.00 per item per person, one can begin with a selection of antipasti to mix and match — tomatoes and mozzarella, marinated asparagus, grilled portabella salad or gorgonzola over crostini to name a few. The thinnest Focaccia ($5.00/$8.25) I’ve ever had anywhere arrives with the biggest flavor of fresh basil and fontina cheese. Calamari Fritti ($7.95) is fresh calamari fried in a seemingly tempura batter, and served with roasted vegetable salsa — a great diversion from marinara sauce — and enough to satisfy a party of four as an appetizer. Or, if that doesn’t get you started, how about a cup of Brodo ($5.50), an intoxicating seafood soup consisting of clams, shrimp, and garlic in fresh clam broth.

The chef cooks up an authentic risotto, as the risotto with portabella, shiitake and crimini mushrooms, topped with fresh asparagus and asiago cheese is served al dente and slightly runny. This Risotto Con Funghi ($10.00/$14.95) makes me want to definitely try the Risotto with Lobster and Lemon ($19.95) the next time around.

Many pasta dishes are offered in two sizes to please an array of appetites — an admirable consideration of the restaurant. Some of the pasta dishes, however are almost too good to order scaled down. A seafood favorite is Spaghetti Con Pesce ($14.00/$19.75) featuring spaghetti adrift in fresh clam broth with lobster, shrimp, clams and mussels, accented with peas and red peppers, hailing from the Adriatic shores. Triangoli ($9.00/$15.25), triangle-shaped pasta stuffed with wild mushrooms in a hearty tomato sauce with spicy sausage, is the ultimate pasta dish here as I actually find myself craving it for days until I can make my way to the restaurant.

If you want to try the Triangoli and feel extra good that you’ve gotten the best deal in town go to Gallo Rosso on a Wednesday night and order the Pasta and Chianti special. You and your partner have a choice of a bottle of red wine from a limited number available, with a pasta dish from three choices that are regularly featured on the menu, a fresh and crisp green leaf dinner salad with a Belgian endive spear (try the gorgonzola blue cheese dressing), and crusty rolls — all for a total of $26.95. It’s an amazing bargain. And, Triangoli is one of the pastas featured. If there is not a flier on the tabletop or your server forgets to mention the Pasta and Chianti feature, do not be afraid to ask. All tables seem to sport wine bottles on Wednesday nights, whether patrons order the pasta and wine special or are subliminally seduced into ordering a bottle of wine from the extensive wine list, after seeing so many being opened.

Featured as an entree on the menu is Pappardelle Verdi ($18.95), broad spinach noodles are mixed with lamb, fried eggplant and goat cheese in a seductive veal demi-glaze, has been a crowd pleasing standard for years. Take a creative leap and have the Tricolored Orzo Southwestern Style ($19.95). A colorful confetti-like presentation shows off shrimp, fennel sausage and chicken served with sautéed peppers, onions, corn and chipotles in a fiery adobo sauce creating interesting action on the taste buds. Travel far away from Italy and treat yourself to Seared Salmon Calipso ($19.95). A huge salmon filet is seared, velvety within and served with banana cantaloupe and cashew chutney along a bed of sweet potato fries. Even the menu says this dish is definitely not Italian.

For those who want to steak their claim in (or claim their steak), Pan Seared Aged Filet of Beef ($24.95) served with fried broccoli and gorgonzola cream is richly satisfying. And, any restaurant that offers a fantastic Osso Bucco ($26.95) has my heart. Gallo Rosso’s braised veal shanks with white wine and tomatoes, finished with veal demi-glaze is a prototype. Believe me, you will not mind spending that quarter of a C-note for these entrees, it is worth it. Just don’t think about Wednesday night’s Pasta and Chianti deal.

Sautéed Sole ($19.95) lacked no soul, however light it was, gently pan-fried and served with garlic and parsley butter. One can choose from a selection of five fresh fish, grilled with extra virgin olive oil or lemon oil and served with crisp primavera vegetables. That ever-popular Patagonian Toothfish (a.k.a. Chilean Sea Bass) is one of these prime and delicate choices.

If you were good and you opted for a demi-portion of pasta, you could still have room for Gallo Rosso’s Tiramisù. The traditional soaked lady finger, mascarpone filled dessert is plated in a contemporary manner and tastes succulent. If you weren’t good, and couldn’t resist a multi-course dinner here, it’s the Raspberry Gelato for you. With food this good at Gallo Rosso — me? I’m never good.

 

Gallo Rosso
Entrees - $12.00-$26.95
Average Dining Time
60 minutes

Location
Easy to find

Parking
Parking lot to the side

Handicapped Access
Yes

Exterior Appearance
Italian-style townhouse

Initial Interior
Marble entry

Reservations Necessary
Highly recommended

Preferred Dining Attire
Stylish-casual

Wait (to be seated)
None

Wait (for service)
None

Lighting
Subtle

Meal-time Music
Subtle

Dining Area Appearance
Contemporary elegance

Noise
Perceivable din

Climate
Fine

Tables
Linen cloaked

Chairs
Sturdy

Booths
Banquettes

Table setting
Full setting

Your meal
Excellent

Automatically served
Hard crusted rolls

Cocktails
Wine

Soups
Brodo (seafood soup)

Salads
Dinner salad with gorgonzola blue cheese dressing

Main Course
Triangoli

Desserts
Raspberry Gelato

Coffees/Teas
Excellent

Staff Attitude
Welcoming

Staff Appearance
Shirt and tie

Hospitality
Welcoming

Cleanliness
Exquisite

Wash Rooms
Dainty

Crowd (Qty)
Packed

Crowd (attitude)
Casual

Food (portions)
Good

Overall Service
Good

Payment Accepted
All major Credit Cards



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