Where else in Harrisburg can you begin with luxurious foie gras and end with the sweetest citrus of all, the blood orange? Where else in Harrisburg are you treated to pink lemon champagne and lime sorbet to cleanse your palate between courses? And, where else in Harrisburg do you receive warm dinner rolls hand-served with silver tongs aside dollops of sun-dried tomato-kissed butter?

Tables at the Golden Sheath are double cloaked with white linen and long banquettes hug the walls in the sophisticated main dining room. Matching napkins are subtly draped from wine glasses over marble chargers harmonizing with low marble-based table lamps. Stark walls carry oversized spring flower art-work and elusive light seen coming from within the wine closet reminds you of the discriminating varietal selections.

During the tail-end of this dreary, snow-covered winter, look to the Golden Sheaf’s seasonal menu for a bit of comfort. Full-bodied and deeply bronze in color, Philadelphia Turtle Soup ($4) warms you up served with traditional sherry to add at your pleasure. An appetizer of Duck and Pesto Ravioli ($8) is airy and full of flavor, gently cloaked with sun-dried tomato cream sauce. Thin, crispy sesame seed studded wafers and goat cheese laced with apple wood smoked bacon are presented at the beginning of the meal and enhance any appetizer.

I go out of my way for a starter of foie gras — that luscious and rich fattened duck liver. The Golden Sheaf is truly the only restaurant in the area that consistently serves this silky and sultry appetizer. Once not available in the United States and mostly found in France (it is illegal to import fresh foie gras), duck foie gras is now produced in upstate New York. As it is often served with a sweet, fruity sauce, the Golden Sheaf heightens the luxury factor by serving a thick slice of pan seared foie gras ($12) with musty scented, moderately detected white truffle flavored honey, enriched with a deep syrupy balsamic reduction on top of a thick slice of country bread.

When it comes to salad, a fine dining traditionalist may opt for a Caesar salad ($5), but the Winter Greens ($5) with fresh mozzarella, hardy heirloom tomatoes, and sweet, ripe whole figs sheathed in balsamic fig vinaigrette are a welcoming alternative. Delicate champagne sorbet served in petite-stemmed glasses is a refreshing mezza before the main course arrives.

You might ask if this formal elegant dining establishment reflects a bit of stuffiness in the staff. The maître d’ could not have been friendlier, chatting about his longing to be back living in the Keys, far away from zero degrees. And, the highly knowledgeable wait staff was eager to make recommendations and ready to please.

Entrées arrive with the same finesse and formal presentation as the opening courses, cooked to perfection. Grilled Sirloin Steak ($32) is not just aged, but dry-aged — the best of the aging processes — creating a steak with flavor and tender texture. Served with Gorgonzola maître d’ butter and a silken pinot noir reduction, this steak made a purist rave. If you like scallops, you’re in for a treat. Winter is the season for day boat scallops — sea scallops that are hand harvested by divers and delivered to the distributor within 24 hours. The Golden Sheaf sears their stout Day Boat Scallops ($26) and serves them on a bed of creamy sweet corn and bacon risotto finished with saffron sauce. The freshness and sweetness come through. Baby carrots and hericots verts (young, pencil-thin green beans) accompany many of the main courses.

Risotto and saffron show up again paired Milanese style in a soul satisfying slow cooked and tender Braised Lamb Shank ($26) with a garlic infused reduction. It is an earthy and hearty winning winter dish. And, risotto was stirred up once more as it was flavored with baby Longastino lobster and served as a bed in a special of fresh-tasting jumbo shrimp generously mounded with crabmeat ($26.95). The top quality shrimp have no better base to be sitting upon. This is no ordinary crab stuffed shrimp dish.

At dessert time, try a Blood Orange Tart in a Shortbread Crust. Segments of blood orange — the sweetest of all oranges — encircle the tart, decoratively sauced. Author John McPhee has said that the blood orange frightens American women. Maybe it’s because of its name or its deep red, almost dark violet, flesh that suggests the ominous mafia ties to Sicily, the true home of the blood orange. For whatever the reason, if I am not frightened of fattened duck liver, this is one American woman certainly not frightened of blood oranges. If you’re really in the mood for something rich and creamy for dessert, a trio of crackling crusted Crème Brûlée may be for you. Chocolate, vanilla, and pumpkin flavored Crème Brûlée shows up in small ramekins all on one plate. Keep them all for yourself or share the luxury with your mate.

The Golden Sheaf in the heart of Harrisburg is a fantastic and romantic place with sophisticated and succulent dishes fit for any special occasion.

Location:
Center City Harrisburg

Parking:
Hilton Parking Garage or Valet

Handicapped Access:
Front entrance

Exterior Appearance:
Harrisburg Hilton & Towers

Initial Interior:
Maître d’ stand outside entrance

Reservations Necessary:
Recommended

Preferred Dining Attire:
Dressy

Wait (to be seated):
None

Wait (for service):
None

Lighting:
Small table lamps

Meal-time Music:
Subtle

Dining Area Appearance: Formal

Noise:
Light chatter

Climate:
Fine

Tables:
Linen dressed

Chairs:
Comfortable

Booths:
Banquettes

Table setting:
Full Setting

Your meal:
Excellent

Automatically served:
Sesame wafers with goat cheese

Cocktails:
Fine wine

Soups:
Philadelphia Turtle Soup

Salads:
Winter Greens w/mozzarella

Main Course:
Seared Day Boat Scallops

Desserts:
Blood Orange Tart in Shortbread Crust

Coffees/Teas:
Variety

Staff Attitude:
Knowledgeable and ready to please

Staff Appearance:
Formal

Hospitality:
Welcoming

Cleanliness:
Exceptional

Wash Rooms:
Exceptional

Crowd (Qty):
Few empty tables

Crowd (attitude):
Urbane

Food (portions):
Ample

Overall Service:
Wonderful

Payment Accepted:
All major Credit Cards

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