But, to say that the food is good is to say that the ruins of Pompeii are mere rubble, that Caesar was a politician, and that cats roam Rome. Despite Visaggio’s accolades, I had this predetermined notion that dinner here would be typical Italian restaurant fare, a bit upscale, but still cliché, with Italian fishing village kitsch decor. How I love to be proven wrong, and Visaggio’s proved me wrong. The atmosphere whispers pampering and comfort, while the food cries flavor as it is exquisitely prepared by Rosemary Visaggio Lumadu — a woman who cooks from the heart.

A signature appetizer, Formaggio in Carrozza ($7.95), is Visaggio’s own nicely-sized cheese rounds, lightly dipped in batter, fried, then sliced, and oozing just enough, begging to be dipped in the marinara sauce that comes with it. You won’t find Toasted or Fried Ravioli here, but you will find a different take on the Americanized Italian appetizer in the form of Gnocchi Fritto ($4.95), where homemade potato dumplings are fried until a crisp tender — actually, a bit chewy inside, then coated with a garlic butter sauce accented with lemon.

Unlike finding a needle in a haystack, Portabella mushrooms show up loud and clear in Haystacks ($8.95) one of a few appetizers sporting the ’shroom that was imported from Italy but first cultivated in the U.S. in Pennsylvania’s mushroom country. In these Haystacks you’ll find slices of herbed Portabella mushrooms matched with a robust earthy mushroom paté and then topped with a taste of the bay — pearly white jumbo lump crabmeat. The Longastino Chowder ($3.95 a cup) is creamy amidst chunks of Longastino lobster meat, potatoes, corn, and peas.

Slices of scrumptious, light crusted, soft, but dense, home-baked Italian bread arrive at the table paired with pepper-flaked olive oil that is a killer if caution is not used. Whipped butter is also delivered for the meek. But, please … don’t fill up on bread.

When it comes to entrées, the embossed menu covers the Italian classics, but also goes beyond them, engaging both rustic and refined choices. Visaggio’s homemade pasta is -exceptional and is exemplified in the Seafood Ravioli ($17.95) where crab, shrimp, and scallops are encased in huge, thin pasta squares resembling pillows — with the end of the ‘pillowcase’ flowing out over the edge of the plate. Light and delicate, almost seductive, the ravioli is topped with separate layers of tomato and cream sauce, blending upon partaking. For those who want the classics, it’s almost no choice, as the samplers (for one – $17.50 or two people – $32.95), include cannelloni, linguini, lasagne, gnocchi, meatballs, and sausage — all in one dish.

For veal-lovers, the “V” in Visaggio’s stands for veal. Lightly floured veal scallops sautéed in butter show up with five alternative treatments from a delicate Vitello Umberto ($18.50) with lemon and mushrooms, flamed with dry vermouth, to subtle Vitello Giuseppe ($18.50) where Visaggio’s four-cheese sauce is all the embellishment needed. Veal chops and enhanced cutlets and medallions round out the veal showcase.

Of a few provincial pickings, the Roast Pork Rustica ($14.95) takes me to my home away from home. As the owners bring the rustic style of preparing center cut pork loin from their native Abruzzi region of Italy, I get the yearning to revisit that same region that claims my roots. Served with linguini or gnocchi in red sauce, the sliced pork is so tender that fork tines need only touch the meat to cause it to shred apart.

Visaggio’s even makes the filet mignon with shrimp seem Italian, in their offering of Elena Maria ($21.95), where medallions of prime filet and four jumbo shrimp are sautéed, then placed on a bed of linguini laced with garlic butter and topped with pecorino romano cheese — magnificio! As seafood does not get lost at Visaggio’s, their renderings lose more of the Italian feel as with Salmon Pescara ($22.95), broiled North Atlantic Salmon topped with crab imperial and Mornay sauce. Crab Cakes Joy Allegra ($19.95), feature lightly seasoned jumbo lump crabmeat kept simple, where delectable, feathered peaks of choice crabmeat come to the table slightly charred from the broiler.

The service is courteous, professional — and efficient — you are all but guaranteed a meal that is piping hot, as the wait staff is silently beeped, causing them to drop everything (figuratively speaking, of course) to rush to deliver the next dinner.

Included with the entrée, the House Salad is quite composed with its slice/wedge of iceberg lettuce and red cabbage shreds, accented with a pile of carrot slivers and a side of pasta salad. (Yes, you read right, pasta salad — chilled shell pasta in a tomato based dressing — good, but somewhat out of place.) The lettuce is topped with an abounding dousing of your choice from the house made dressings offered — from sweet and sour to French horseradish,or add $1.50 for the blue cheese dressing, it’s worth it.

A delightful lemon-flavored aperitif (Lemoncello) is a favorite at Visaggio’s and ordering it as an after-dinner drink, instead of early, won’t offend the owner, Bill Lumadu — as he tends the bar. When the dessert tray arrives, try the cooling Pots de créme, served in a demitasse cup with a praline “straw,” where homemade chocolate is stacked between layers of whipped cream, or go the opposite with the heated version, Cioccolata Al Forno. Both will satisfy that chocolate craving. And, that dessert of the ’90s — Tiramisù (literally defined as “pick me up”) — will not let you down … neither will the entire dining experience at Visaggio’s.

Visaggio’s
Checklist

Location:
Easy to Find

Parking:
Self-serve

Handicapped Access:
Main Entrance

Exterior Appearance:
Far End of Visaggio’s Hotel

Initial Interior:
Refined Lobby with Piano

Reservations Necessary:
Strongly Suggested

Preferred Dining Attire:
Upscale Neat & Clean

Wait (to be seated):
None

Wait (for service):
None

Lighting:
Subtle

Meal-time Music:
Light

Dining Area Appearance:
Casual Contemporary

Noise:
Light chatter

Climate:
Fine

Tables:
Large

Chairs: 
Comfortable

Booths:
None

Table setting:
Full Setting

Your meal:
Excellent

Automatically served:
Bread w/Pepper Olive Oil

Cocktails:
Lemoncello

Soups:
Longastino Chowder

Salads:
House Salad

Main Course:
Seafood Ravioli

Desserts:
Pots de créme

Coffees/Teas:
Espresso & Cappuccino

Staff Attitude: 
Professional & Friendly

Staff Appearance:
Formal

Hospitality:
Welcoming

Cleanliness:
Very Clean

Wash Rooms:
Very Clean

Crowd (Qty):
Packed

Crowd (attitude): Casual/laughter/celebratory

Food (portions):
Good Size

Overall Service:
Very Attentive

Payment Accepted:
All major Credit Cards

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