Speaking of fun, Nick’s is fun. The small and always packed place features a long, considerably formal, but convivial, bar in the front of this informal eatery. Specialty drinks are interesting and varied, but the most exceptional beverage feature at Nick’s is their variety of imported, domestic, and micro brewed beers. Examine Nick’s beer list or check out the sight of the two beer engines (dispensing traditional English ale) and 13 taps with many varieties that you can choose from — any way, you will find a beer to please. But, beware of another sight when sitting at certain seats at the bar. Perched up one level at the head end of the bar is the men’s room, where gentlemen should be discrete when opening and shutting the door — lest exposing a full view of the interior to a handful of non-voyeuristic bar flies. A more agreeable scene opposite the bar features booths perched up that same level along the wall separating table service from the bar just enough to be comfortable. Dine or have a cocktail at the table in the front window if you want to get a glimpse of the neighborhood activity.

Tri-colored, warm tortilla chips with hot salsa make a great bar snack, and many appetizers are typical, but not all are typically mediocre. Fresh Steamed Littleneck Clams ($5.25), tiny and briny, and glistening when dipped in drawn butter, don’t take long to delight the palate. Seafood Skins ($6.95), hollowed out extra-crisp potato skins stuffed with shrimp and scallops with Monterey Jack cheese and a side of sour cream, was much better than expected, while the Fried Calamari ($5.15) dish was too heavy, with more breading than necessary. The most interesting appetizer is Nick’s Blackened Swordfish Strips ($7.25), sliced just right for dipping. But, the most outstanding snack of all, especially when tomatoes are plentiful, is the Bruschetta ($4.95). Small rounds of fresh hard-crusted bread, toasted (Crostini), and topped with a mixture of tomatoes, fresh basil, and olives. These Italian canapes just scream freshness!

Venturing through the silk flower-covered doorway is a small back room, cozy for dining and accommodating for service. The wait staff does not have to run far for drinks or food, so beverages are served fast and food is piping hot. Start dinner with a crock of soup, be it French Onion Soup ($2.50), Chili ($3.00), or thick and smooth Crock of Tomato Soup ($2.85).

Shortly after entrées are ordered, lightly toasted buns with side packets of butter arrive at the table, followed by a house salad — the house vinaigrette is good, but the honey-lime dressing is divine. A few outstanding dinner entrées — sure to please a wide variety of tastes — are sure shots. The Broiled Crab Cakes ($15.95) have golden crusts and are more flat and spread out than the usual ice cream scoop style crab cake, exposing more crab meat to the heat surface, thus encouraging more flavor. Another admirable dinner entrée is the Cedar Plank Salmon ($13.95), where a salmon filet is cooked on a cedar plank and plated with the plank, making a noticeable presentation. This Native American method of cooking infuses a smoky, flavorful enhancement to the fish, an addition that sometimes can be overwhelming, but was just right at Nick’s. Meatier matters mean one lone steak selection — the 12 oz. or 15 oz. New York Strip ($10.95, $14.95) — which got high flavor marks from a steak-craving companion.

Regulars will be glad to know that although a favorite Veal Piccata dish was taken off the menu, the pounded veal, laced with lemon, capers, and butter, can still be put in front of you if requested, with the chef stealing the fresh veal from a future Veal Parmesan platter. At our table, a few friends longing for Italian in the old style, had it both ways — one Veal Parmesan with a side of spaghetti and one Veal Piccata — and it was a battle over which was better. To be sure, pasta doesn’t get lost at Nick’s, with a dozen or so dishes to choose from, but you might get lost in the helpings, as they are huge. If you want full flavor and a full figure, order the Fettuccini Alfredo with Broccoli, as the luxuriously rich taste is exceptional — but the number of fat grams will take up your entire week’s supply. Chicken Cerubi, with diced chicken, hot and flavorful Italian sausage, snow peas, mushrooms, onions, red peppers, and garlic with white wine over linguini, is a pasta mixture one in our party loved to twirl with.

You have got to leave room for dessert at Nick’s. Just take a look at the selections — Tiramisu Torte (layered with whipped cream), Black Forest Torte, Peanut Butter Silk Pie, Raspberry Eclair Torte, Cappuccino Eclair Torte, Three Layer German Chocolate Cake, Texas Millionaire Cheese Cake, Pecan Pie, and Cheese Cake with Blueberries. The consensus was that the Southern exposures stood out — with the Pecan Pie made from a 100 year-old recipe and the Texas Millionaire Cheese Cake highlighting caramelized pecans and both light and dark chocolate.

After dining at Nick’s, it’s not difficult to see why this casual spot has so many regulars, and why they only changed their menu a little bit.

Nick’s 1014 Cafe
Checklist
Entrees - $6.95 - $16.95
Average Dining Time: 60 minutes

Meal-time Music
Low

Staff Appearance:
Neat & Clean

Payment Accepted:
All Major Credit Cards

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