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Scotts Grille
212 Locust Street
Harrisburg, PA
717-234-7599

Dining Review
By Sue Barry

It’s the revival of the big city steak house, and Scotts Grille has changed its style and become the steak house to go to in this grand city, as it attempts to recapture a more opulent era when people went to restaurants to enjoy a good, all-American, thick, juicy steak. It seems fitting that after the re-awakening of martinis and cigars, steak should be the center of attention in the food zone, and Scotts does an admirable job with it. So, “moo-ve” over Morton’s of Chicago and “steer” clear Peter Lugar Steak House in New York. For, in Harrisburg, we’re “steaking” our claim in Scotts.

Only top quality U.S.D.A. prime meats show up at Scotts, most of them hand cut in-house to the size that delivers the most flavor. Having said that, when you show up at Scotts, be prepared to walk away quite satisfied both in quality and quantity of food. Those who favor the velvety texture of a Filet Mignon ($24.95) will find it at Scotts, since they feature the very best of the filet — the center cut. At 10 oz., the extra-thick filet is so delicate that it cuts like softened butter and melts in your mouth. There is no denying why this steak is the top seller here. The 18-oz boneless Kansas City Strip Steak ($26.95) is another prime cut, but in contrast to the filet mignon, it has firm texture and exudes deep beef flavor.

If you can’t decide between these two primes, the porterhouse may be for you, as it encompasses both the strip and the filet separated by the bone. Scotts’ impressive porterhouse is 22 ounces, and they wouldn’t dare try to give you any less and have you miss the finest qualities of both components in this steak. Have you ever had a 20-oz. Delmonico? If not, you can now have one at Scotts. Well-marbled, thick, and tender, the Delmonico ($24.95) is blue-ribbon quality. Preferring good, quality steak virtually unadorned, we haven’t tried the Southwestern Strip ($26.95), as the 18-oz. Kansas City Strip is coated with a dry rub of herbs and spices and topped with poblano aioli. But, curiosity got the best of us this time, as we ordered the aioli on the side for our filet. The slight smokiness and the fairly mild heat of the pablano pepper graced the olive oil and garlic mayonnaise, adding an interesting depth between unadorned bites.

How you order your steak at Scotts is how you get your steak at Scotts, and for these prime pieces of meat it should be cooked no more than medium-rare. The steaks arrive from the grill precisely as you wish, with perfect crosshatched grill marks — the sure sign of the intense heat used to sear, and, yet, retain, moist, subtle meat.

Simple is the key to side dishes for steak house steaks, i.e., a perfect baked potato — that is not foil-wrapped! The starchy, fleshed Idaho potato offers slightly crispy skin and a fluffy interior that give way to the essential enhancement of sour cream. But, even with simple sides, the choice isn’t always that easy, for, when at Scotts, sweet, roasted garlic studs gently merge with mashed potatoes containing earthy flicks of skin, making this garlic mashed potato side a model for others. Large florets of fresh, steamed broccoli topped with mere butter begin to define the green vegetable choices, with creamed spinach as another natural accompaniment. If you’re lucky enough to have sautéed squash offered as a vegetable of the day, then go for it, as the vegetable medley that we had was tender and complete with great texture. At Scotts, side order portions rival the size of the steaks.

All of this food arrives after warm loaves of French bread; an appetizer, if desired (at additional cost); and choices of either a house salad, Caesar Salad, or a bowl of the soup of the day. An appetizer of Calamari Roma ($6.95) has been perfected at Scotts, with tender rounds and tentacles of calamari lightly breaded and fried and sprinkled with shredded romano cheese, a side of fresh lemon, and served with a chunky and flavorful marinara sauce. It seems that calamari is on all restaurant menus, but this particular serving was truly exceptional. A special appetizer that breaks the steak house mold was Scotts lovely, seasonally inspired Pancetta rolled Mozzarella balls served on tomato slices, with baby greens in a balsamic vinaigrette.

A chilled fork, offered with your salad, is a delightful touch that is so rarely seen anymore, and perfectly complimented the steak house staple, Caesar Salad. Fairly traditional at Scotts, the Caesar Salad is served with romaine and herb seasoned croutons, with its classic dressing topped with shredded fresh romano and anchovies, if preferred. The choice of the house dressing, herb vinaigrette, to top the house salad — ample mix of fresh crisp greens with cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes, mushrooms, and sweet onions — seemed a little weak after tasting the balsamic vinaigrette, which lent more character. A bowl of Black Bean Soup was thick and earthy, complemented by a dollop of sour cream.

A two-level restaurant with a featured bar up-front, Scotts is a comfortable place to dine — with its wide, tufted booths, ample tables (for all of that food!), and music and extraneous sounds at a polished din. Maroon to mauve colors complement the dark wood furnishings and interesting local artwork flanks the walls. Low-lit table lamps add to the ambiance of the experience. Professional and friendly, the wait staff emits an element of class that completes this clubby, yet warm, atmosphere. Table tents provide you with choice drinks, wines by the glass, and a selection of domestic, imported and some of the area’s best micro-brewed beers. Desserts are all products of the infamous Dingeldein Bakery in New Cumberland, and could include a signature Chocolate Decadence, Swedish Apple Flan, Lemon Cheesecake, or German Chocolate Cake, to name a few, if in fact you can fit any more food in.

If you’re wondering if Scotts has other entrées beside steaks, they do — Jumbo Lump Maryland Crab Cakes ($18.95), Herbed Rack of Lamb ($24.95), Grilled Marinated Chicken Breast ($12.95), and a few other seafood and grilled choices. But when you go to Scotts, go for the steak. In this city — that’s the easy choice.

Scotts Grille
Checklist

Entrees - $12.95 - $28.95
Average Dining Time: 60 minutes

Location:
Easy to Find

Parking:
Self-Serve

Handicapped Access:
Yes

Exterior Appearance:
City Scape Bld. with Smoked Glass

Initial Interior:
Reservation Desk and Bar

Reservations Necessary:
Not Always Necessary

Preferred Dining Attire:
Neat and Clean

Wait (to be seated):
None

Wait (for service):
None

Lighting:
Subtle

Meal-time Music
Light Contemporary

Dining Area Appearance
Clubby & Comfortable

Noise:
Light Chatter

Climate:
Fine

Tables:
Ample

Chairs:
Comfortable

Booths:
Large and Tufted

Table Setting:
Full Setting

Your Meal:
Excellent

Automatically Served:
French Loaf

Soups:
Black Bean Soup

Salads:
Caesar Salad

Cocktails:
House Wine

Main Course:
10 oz. Center Cut Filet Mignon

Desserts:
Lemon Cheesecake

Coffees/Teas:
Very Good

Staff Attitude:
Professional & Friendly

Staff Appearance:
White Shirt & Tie

Hospitality:
Welcoming

Cleanliness:
Clean

Wash Rooms:
Clean

Crowd (Qty):
Some Empty Tables

Crowd (Attitude):
Casual/Laughter

Food (portions):
Doggy Bag Heaven

Overall Service:
Attentive

Payment Accepted:
All Major Credit Cards


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