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One-Tank Getaway
Seek Respite In Bellefonte


By Sandi Mauer

Do you ever feel the need to get away from it all? No phones, no pagers, no email … Well, I found a place where you can do just that. (My PCS phone didn’t even have network in this area.) Now, you won’t completely step back in time to the turn of the 20th century, but you can definitely step back to a place where the pace is slower, people are helpful and friendly, and there is much to remind you of times past. So, leave the cell phone and laptop computer behind and take the two-hour trek northwest to Bellefonte.

Bush ArcadeDubbed “Victorian” Bellefonte and “Historic” Bellefonte, this small town with a population of just over 6,000 very friendly people boasts a lot of history. The first mention of this area in recorded history was back in 1745, when the first white man purchased land from the Indians that roamed the Nittany Valley. The name Bellefonte came about when the French statesman, Talleyrand, visited the Dunlops (an influential Bellefonte family) when he was in exile. When he was shown the massive spring, for which the town is famous, he exclaimed, “La belle font!” And the rest, as they say, is history. Speaking of history, Bellefonte was also home to seven governors (five of which were Pennsylvania governors) and the first female architect in Pennsylvania, Anna Wagner Keichline. Bellefonte’s Edison Electric Illuminating Co. (est. 1883) was only the second such plant in the U.S. Mr. Edison himself made the inspections on this plant.

The history of the borough is also evident in the architecture of the town. There are many beautifully maintained, historic Victorian buildings throughout the town, as well as other styles of architecture. The Garman Opera House built in 1890 has been brilliantly restored and offers plays and concerts on most weekends. The historic Linn House, built in 1810 in the Federal style of architecture, is home to the Bellfonte Museum, which currently has a display of dollhouses.

The Queen, A Victorian Bed & BreakfastBefore you decide to head to Bellefonte, I would suggest that you make reservations to stay at one of the gorgeous homes turned Bed and Breakfast for a truly relaxing experience. We stayed at The Queen, a Victorian Bed and Breakfast. This B&B is an impeccably restored Queen Anne Victorian home, which is listed on the National Historic Registry. Our hostess, Nancy Noll, certainly made us feel at home (as did many of the locals). Whether you choose to relax in front of one of the fireplaces or in the oversized hottub, The Queen certainly allows you to forget the pressures of everyday life. This B&B was brimming with an abundance of antiques, a surplus of Santas, and mannequins in Victorian garb. The parlor offers a warm fireplace, a working victrola, and an antique stereoscope through which one can view century-old photos. There are two guestrooms in this beautiful home, which was built over 100 years ago. Anne’s Room, the original master bedroom, is truly fit for a Queen. It has a slipper tub, perfect for bubble baths and a sitting area in the tower. One notices the attention to detail when you spot the bloomers draped over the screen as if Anne herself had hung them there before relaxing in the inviting tub. On the third floor, The Tower Room has a tower sitting area complete with a fireplace. The décor of this room is more masculine with pheasant and fish motifs complementing everything from ceiling to commode. (This room is sure to appeal to those who travel to Centre County in hopes of hooking a big one in one of numerous, well-stocked fishing holes. More about that later …) All of this is complimented by a gourmet breakfast with conversation about the local fishing holes, antiquing, Bellefonte history, and architecture.

Since check-in at most B&B’s is late afternoon, you may choose to arrive in the morning and check out the town before you check in. When you arrive in Bellefonte, stop at the “Train Station” at 320 West High Street, which is home to the Chamber of Commerce/Tourist Bureau. There you’ll find a brochure entitled “Historical Walking Tour of Bellefonte.” With the information provided in the brochure, you can stroll through the streets of Bellefonte and study the architecture and beauty of this small town at your own pace.

Brockerhoff HouseIf you are travelling with friends, you may want to consider “Town & Country Tours and Tea.” For groups of 10 or more, a guide will take you on an excursion through Bellefonte, including a tour through Bellefonte that weaves history, architecture, and local legend into an enjoyable narrative; a tour through The Queen, the home at which we stayed; a tour of Reynold’s Mansion (another beautiful B&B), built in 1885 with a blend of Gothic, Italianate and Queen Anne styles; and culmination in a relaxing afternoon reception in the continental manner at Windswept Farm. The tour can be done in part or whole. (Call the Centre County Visitors Bureau at 814-231-1400 for more information.)

If you would rather do something other than touring the historic sites, Bellefonte offers opportunities beyond Victoriana. If you like antiques, you’ll love antiquing in Centre County. Bellefonte itself is home to several antique shops, not to mention numerous others throughout the county. There are also several shops in town, which feature some unique items and collectibles. In just a short walk you can shop at “Ruffles & Treasures” (all occasion gifts, stoneware, and nostalgia), “The Black Cat” (gifts, antiques, and candy), Creekside Rock & Gems (natural stone jewelry and Native American Indian products), and various other shops.

After all that shopping, you’re sure have an appetite. For authentic German cuisine, stop by Schnitzels Tavern in the historic Bush House Hotel. They have everything from Wurst to Schnitzel to German beer. If you just want a snack and a cup of joe, drop in Cool Beans Coffee & Tea. In addition to coffees and teas, this folksy java joint offers sandwiches, sweets, and soups. You can play a game of chess, cards, or Chinese checkers, or if you have a craving for the computer you left behind, Cool Beans has a computer with free Internet access for its patrons who want to do a little surfing.

For a fine dining experience, you cannot miss at the Gamble Mill Tavern/Restaurant. The mill was constructed in 1786 and had many owners throughout the years. In 1923, the mill was left to deteriorate. It was eventually condemned and was slated for demolition. Fortunately for Bellefonte and those who visit it, the current owner purchased the mill in 1975 and, with the help of a dedicated local group, it was the first building in Bellefonte to be placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1976. The restoration continued until 1985. The building is beautiful and is the perfect setting for the appetizing continental cuisine and friendly service, which they serve up. Our local lunch companion assured us that there isn’t a bad item on the menu there!

For those who are train buffs, the Bellefonte Historical Railroad makes excursions from Bellefonte to Towne Tavern in Lock Haven for a “ride and dine” experience. (Call 814-355-0311 for dates and times of operation.)

If you’re a fisherman, you’ve definitely come to the right place. I was told by one of the shop owners that Centre County is known throughout the U.S. as one of the best fishing areas in the country. This was immediately evident as I crossed the bridge on High Street and peered into Spring Creek below. There were trout, which were at least two feet long. Now you can’t fish in this area of Spring Creek, but I’m told that there are other fishing holes which are just as good. If you want to find one, give Curt Miller a call (814-355-7946). He gives guided fishing tours and he swears he’ll help you catch at least one fish, even if you’re a novice.

For those researching their roots, Bellefonte boasts one of the largest genealogical libraries in the mid-Atlantic region. (I’m told it is second only to the National Archives.) The Pennsylvania Room of the Centre County Library located in the Miles-Humes Home has a specialized collection of over 3000 volumes as well as original Centre County records, newspapers, and various historical and genealogical periodicals. A friendly staff person is usually available to assist researchers.

The neighborly folk and slower pace in Bellefonte are certainly a treat from the everyday grind that we’re so accustomed to. I suggest you pick up that cell phone now and make reservations for your getaway to Bellefonte.

Directions:

  • Go West on US-322. Approximately 75 miles.
  • After crossing Seven Mountains, go Northwest on SR-144 for about 13 miles into Bellefonte.

Places To Stay:

  • The Queen, A Victorian Bed and Breakfast
    176 E. Linn St., Bellefonte, PA 16823
    814-355-7946
  • The Reynolds Mansion, Bed and Breakfast
    101 W. Linn St., Bellefonte, PA 16823
    814-353-8407 / 800-899-3929
  • The Garret, Bed and Breakfast
    217 West Linn Street, Bellefonte, PA 16823
    814-355-3093
  • Annie Natt House, Bed and Breakfast
    127 W. Curtin St., Bellefonte, PA 16823
    814-353-1456

Places To Eat:

  • The Gamble Mill Restaurant
    160 Dunlop St., Bellefonte, PA 16823
    814-355-7764
    (reservations recommended)
  • Schnitzels Tavern
    315 High St., Bellefonte, PA 16823
    814-355-4230
  • Cool Beans Coffee & Tea
    141 W. High St.,
    Bellefonte, PA 16823

What To Do:

  • Self-Guided Walking Tour
    Brochures available at
    Chamber of Commerce
    320 W. High St.
    Bellefonte, PA 16823
    814-355-2917
  • Garman Opera House
    116 E. High St
    Bellefonte, PA 16823
    814-355-7884
  • Town & Country Tours and Tea
    Centre County Visitors Bureau
    814-231-1400

Where To Shop:

  • Ruffles & Treasures
    135 S. Allegheny St.
    Bellefonte, PA 16823
    814-353-8599

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