Cool Stuff About Business and Entertainment
in the Greater Harrisburg, PA Area.

A Matter of Taste

Penn Hotel & Sports Bar
600 West Chocolate Ave
Hershey, PA
717-533-9260

Dining Review
By Sue Barry

When was the last time you went to a good old-fashioned corner bar for great American bar food and found the best in Italian-American pasta specialties as a bonus? Unless you’ve been to the Penn Hotel & Sports Bar on a Wednesday evening lately, chances are you haven’t had the experience. The Penn, tucked inside a cozy neighborhood long known as Little Italy at the west end of Hershey, doesn’t look like much from the outside. It doesn’t look like much from the inside, either, but don’t let the straightforward bar room appearance keep you away when you have a hankering for a pitcher of beer and wings or a burger … or the best lasagna you’ll ever taste.

Penn Hotel & Sports Bar Owner, Ron CollinsLet’s start with some typical snacks. Ordered as appetizers or side orders, Cheese Fries ($3.25) are served lightly golden and kept hot by the slightly stringy melted cheese served with an uncanny, modest secret “special sauce.” The Broccoli and Cheese Balls ($2.50) always hit their mark with one regular at our table, and the Penn’s Buffalo Style Hot Wings ($3.95/dozen) are meager but crisp and desirably fiery served with the requisite sticks of celery and a side of blue cheese dressing. The one appetizer that’s a must is a serving of Provolone Sticks ($3.75), homemade and delicately fried, cheese oozing slightly when bitten into with their shape still maintained between the finger tips. Dipped into the Penn’s classic marinara sauce, the Provolone Sticks are as good as bar food gets — until you try the sandwiches.

Signature sandwiches include the Cheese Steak ($7.50 for the 12" or $3.50 for half), and Meatball Sub ($4.25). Hot griddle-sizzled chopped beef and onions integrated with cheese and sauce are elements that make the Cheese Steak Sandwich one to yearn for, and the flavorful, piping hot, sauced meatballs resting on provolone that has melted just enough is part of this Meatball Sandwich’s appeal. But neither would be sought after if it were not for the crusty rolls that hold up to the loaded mixtures encased inside. Another favorite are the Penn’s flavorful, juicy inside and charred outside burgers, offered seven different ways and cooked to your liking ($3.35-$4.35). Not oversized but ample, you can actually taste the burger and all of your chosen toppings in every bite. The Grilled Skinless Chicken Breast Sandwich with lettuce, tomato, and mayo ($4.75) is a favorite of one in our party, as the meat is consistently moist, never dry or chewy. Onion Rings ($1.75), huge and thick, are the perfect side for these classic sandwiches.

And now, if you’re going to the Penn on Wednesday nights, a gastronomic diversion takes place as soon as you enter the door. Plates of the pasta special whiz by one way as fresh baked bread heads another way. If you can pass on the sandwiches, go early for the pasta since it is always a sell out. Every table has a patron or two partaking in the Italian pasta specialty of the night. It could be Spaghetti and Meatballs, it could be Manicotti, but on a recent Wednesday, it happened to be Lasagna ($7.95). Ah, the lasagna at the Penn — its classic ricotta, mozzarella, and parmesan cheese mixture, laced with soft sheets of homemade layered pasta, weightless, literally melting in your mouth. Coated with an unbelievably light tomato meat sauce, the divine four-layer structure stands so sturdy as the homemade pasta grabs onto the irresistible filling, and as forkfuls expose miniature meatballs tempting the next luscious bite. I am sure all have experienced lasagna that when cut into, the filling slides off the pasta as though the lasagna noodles were coated with Teflon. That’s the difference between good homemade pasta and packaged noodles. No Teflon coating here, and no dry, burnt edges either, just pure Italian comfort food bliss. I challenge you to find a better prototype (at least this side of Mulberry Street in New York’s Little Italy)! Served with a simple salad and homemade fresh Italian bread, and you’ll be wondering where the red checkered tablecloths are.

The special board is the place to look for not only for the pasta special, but also for other notable specials any day of the week. A standard feature on the board is a plate of Steamed Shrimp to peel and eat with traditional cocktail sauce. If you think these tender, firm, and succulent jumbo shrimp are a steal at $6.95 a dozen, go to the Penn on Tuesday evenings when they are inconceivably offered for $4.95. In the mood for tacos? Try two for a buck on Monday nights along with $2-a-dozen hot wings. A down-home pork chop dinner for $7.50 is the special on Thursday nights.

At the Penn, smokers and nonsmoker alike drink and eat in the essentially one-room establishment which is graced with modest tables and framed, black vinyl banquet chairs. In plain view is the horseshoe-shaped bar to the rear and, to the side, a shuffleboard table that is frequently occupied. Sports are always on the big-screen television and other smaller televisions around, but depending on the evening, they may not be the focus. The diverse regular customer base that ranges from real estate moguls to friendly bar flies keeps the pleasant and efficient waitresses moving. And, to no surprise, there is not a tourist in the bunch, not even during peak roller coaster season.

So the next time you feel like going to a corner bar, try the Penn Hotel & Sports Bar on Wednesday nights, where maybe not everybody there knows your name, but everybody there knows the great American bar food and the great Italian-American pasta game.

Penn Hotel
& Sports Bar
Checklist
Entrees range from $5.50 to $11.50

Average Dining Time: 60 minutes

Location:
Looked Around

Parking:
Self-Serve

Handicapped Access:
Entrance

Exterior Appearance:
Corner Bar

Initial Interior:
Straight into Dining Room

Reservations Necessary:
Could Take a Chance

Preferred Dining Attire:
Casual

Wait (to be seated):
None

Wait (for service):
None

Lighting:
Subtle

Decor:
N/A

Dining Area Appearance
Bar Room

Noise:
Light Chatter

Climate:
Fine

Tables:
Small

Chairs:
Comfortable

Booths:
Only two, seat four

Table Setting:
N/A

Your Meal:
Excellent

Automatically Served:
Homemade Bread

Soups:
N/A

Salads:
S
imple

Cocktails:
N/A

Main Course:
Special - Lasagn
a

Desserts:
N/A

Coffees:
Reliable

Staff Attitude:
Friendly

Staff Appearance:
Neat & Clean

Hospitality:
Welcoming

Cleanliness:
OK

Wash Rooms:
Overshadowed

Crowd (Qty):
Packed

Crowd (Attitude):
Casual/Laughter

Food (portions):
Generous

Food (prices):
N/A

Overall Service:
Attentive

Payment Accepted:
All major credit cards

 

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