As I was born the day after Christmas, this season has always held a special place in my heart. Every year, from the time I was a child, the whole family would hop in the car in search of beautiful lights and decorations. Now that my own children are getting old enough to appreciate the holiday festivities, I wanted to find a place that would be memorable for them as well. So what did I do? I packed the family in the car and followed the star in the East … the star to Bethlehem. Bethlehem, PA, that is.

In anticipation of this journey, I wondered if the merchants of Bethlehem would capitalize on the theme of Christmas. After all, Bethlehem, PA is known through much of the world as “Christmas City, USA.” Would there be crèches on every corner? Would there be lights on each limb of every tree? Would the restaurants and shops have trite names like “Perfumes of the Magi,” “Three Kings’ Pizza,” or “Franken’s Scents & Bath Oils”? As it turns out, I did find a shop called “The Sober Camel,” which is a twelve-step self-help and inspirational book and gift shop, and a tea shop called The Squire’s Herbary and Tea Pub, which sells a specialty tea called “Angels Dream”; but the city really doesn’t over capitalize on its Christmas theme. They do, however, take Christmas very seriously.

Christmas traditions have deep roots in Bethlehem. In the year 1741, a group of approximately 500 Moravians (officially called “Unity of the Brethren”) settled in this portion of Pennsylvania. They had acquired the land from the Penn family with the intention to minister to the natives of this land. On Christmas Eve, 1741, the Moravian sisters and brethren gathered for a community service and sang a hymn, “Jesus, Call Thou Me.” After singing the words “Not Jerusalem, lowly Bethlehem ‘twas that gave us Christ,” Count Nicholas Ludwig Von Zinzendorf, their visiting patron from Europe, declared that the name of this new settlement would be Bethlehem. During the next 100 years, the group grew to a community of only 1000 people, and was home to only Moravians and their converts. In the mid 19th century, the community voted to allow people of other faiths dwell there as well. Today, Moravians make up only about 5% of this city of 70,000 people, but they and their ancestors made an enormous impact on this town. These days the traditions of the Moravians and the various other ethnicities strongly influence the city’s Christmas celebration.

When visiting Bethlehem it is best to start at the Bethlehem Tourism Authority, located at 52 West Broad Street. In addition to gathering information on all there is to see and do, you can also buy tickets for the Famous Night Light Bus Tour, Christmas Walking Tour, or Horse Drawn Carriage Rides. The Night Light Bus Tours are narrated by guides wearing early Moravian garb and travel through Bethlehem’s historic areas to view the city’s holiday lights and the Bethlehem “Star” on South Mountain. On the Christmas Walking Tour, a guide, also in colonial Moravian costume, will escort you through the historic district of Bethlehem. Although this tour doesn’t have much to do with the Christmas season, it is an interesting look at the history on which this city was founded. If you enjoy early American history and architecture, as I do, I would recommend taking this stroll through the historic section. The Horse Drawn Carriage Ride is a more romantic way to see the Historic and Victorian districts. The rides begin at the visitor’s center and leave every 20 minutes. I found that taking a tour gave me the opportunity to “scope out” the places I wanted to visit.

As you walk along Main Street you can’t help but get in the Christmas spirit. The trees along the street play an important role in adding to the ambience. During the day, Christmas carols permeate the air as if from nowhere. (If you look closely enough though, you’ll find speakers hidden in the trees.) After twilight, the lights, which fill the trees, give the town a glimmer in the darkness of night. Shopkeepers have dressed their windows with garlands, lights, and glitter, which beckon you inside and see where other treasures await. It really reminds me of an old-fashioned Christmas, you know, before the days of shopping malls … “City sidewalks, busy sidewalks, dressed in holiday style …” See, it really works at getting you in the mood … I’m even breaking out in song.

As you walk down Main Street, you’ll find another spot at the bottom of the hill which you’ll want to see to help keep you in the a Christmas state of mind. Below the Hill-to-Hill Bridge at Spring and Main streets is the “Christkindlmarkt” — German for “Christ Child Market.” This tradition is only six years old in Bethlehem, but dates back to medieval Europe when townspeople would meet to shop, mingle, and celebrate the holiday in outdoor markets. Here Germanic influence is evident with German words flung about the Zelt (German for tent). At the entrance is the word Eingang, (German for entrance) and Ausgang at the exit. This year the featured exhibit of the Christkindlmarkt is Antique Toys, which brings back memories from Christmases past. As you enter the first heated tent called Weinachten Zelt, there are showcases filled with toys, which range in age from the turn of the century to the 1940s. After you pass the antique toys, you will find a model train display, which is pleasing to both young and old. Beyond the trains is the Kathe Wolfhart stand, which offers a full line of beautiful authentic German holiday items and has a life-sized nutcracker standing guard.

As you leave the Weinachten Zelt, you enter the Hofraum (courtyard). On the day we visited, there was a marionette show being performed. All of the kids absolutely loved the program by the Middle Earth Hobbit House with characters from J.R.R. Tolkien’s works.

From the Hofraum enter the Markt Zelt (or Marketplace Tent) featuring a craft paradise. You’ll find more than 100 juried crafts people selling handicrafts ranging from Bees Wax Candles to Wooden Santas. Of course, the Christmas theme runs rampant through the booths of these vendors and you’re sure to find something to your liking. In fact, finding something you like is the easy part, narrowing it down to what you will actually buy is a little more difficult. The Markt Zelt also features the Tannenbaum Café, so you can stop for a bite to eat and listen to musicians playing what else …Christmas carols. And what Christmas Fest would be complete without the big man in red? Yes, Santa is at the back of the Markt Zelt in the section called Kindermarkt (which means children’s market, of course).

If you want to do all there is to see and do in Bethlehem, I would recommend a stay of a couple days. However, don’t plan to stay at the Bethlehem Hotel, because there’s no room at this inn … In fact, this huge hotel, located on Main Street, is closed. According to one tour guide, they expect to re-open it sometime next year. Don’t fret, though, there are plenty of other places to “settle your brains for a long winter’s nap.” Just make sure you call in advance for reservations (this is the busy season, after all), and you wouldn’t want to end up in the same predicament as Joseph and Mary on that first Christmas.

Places To Stay

Night Light Bus Tour (5-9pm, daily),
Christmas Walking Tour (2-7pm, daily),
Candlelight Concerts (2-9pm, thru Jan. 3),
Horse Drawn Carriage Ride
Bethlehem Tourism Authority
52 West Broad Street, Bethlehem, PA
1-800-360-TOUR
http://www.bethtour.org/

Christkindlmarkt
Spring and Main Streets, Bethlehem, PA
http://secure.rnci.com/christkindlmarkt/home.htm