A Matter of Taste - HERBIE’S EL MEXICANA

HERBY’S
EL MEXICANA
720 Main St., Bressler, PA 17113
717-939-0624
by Sue Barry

Ole’! Ole’! It’s fiesta-time at Herby’s! Cancel those reservations on Mexicana Airlines because great authentic Mexican food is right in your backyard (as it is just blocks behind Eisenhower Blvd.). This small, unassuming, family-run cantina features fantastic, traditional border fare at bargain prices and rivals any of the better-known restaurante-types around. It’s only a matter of time (and a matter of taste) until this tortilla-eatery is soon discovered by the masses. Make no mistake. There are no frills here . . . there are no trends here (as you will discern from Herby’s plastic, luminous sign that also promotes a ginger ale, to its interior stucco walls with wrought iron accented archways). What is here? One of the world’s oldest cuisines in its purest form.

Even before the warm, just-made tortilla chips and "fresh as fresh can be" salsa began our south-of-the border experience on a recent evening, my dining companions’ taste buds were dancing from the combination of marimba music playing in the background and the scent of spices in the air. We were fired up for appetizers like Queso Fundido ($3.95), a blend of chorizo (spicy sausage), melted chihuahua cheese and ranchero sauce, served with warm, soft, densely flavored corn tortillas, and Herby’s Seafood Quesadilla ($3.75), which includes a combination of crab, lobster, shrimp and huge scallops mixed with jack cheese, keeping the large pan-fried tortillas overflowing. And, don’t forget the soup. At $1.25 a cup, Sopa de Camaron, featuring large shrimp in a rich seafood stock, is a steal by all accounts. A cup of Pozole ($1.25), labeled on the menu as corn soup, does not do justice to convey the synergy of flavor in this hominy, pork and chile-based soup . . . an authentic sign of the tried-and-true.

What to drink with the kind of feisty dishes characteristic of the experience at Herby’s? Of course . . . margarita! Your choice served straight up, frosted or on-the-rocks. Whichever way, the Herby’s version of this indicative Mexicana libation hits the spot. Order a small margarita ($3.25), a large one ($3.95), or a pitcher ($18.00) to share. If you’re in the mood for a brew, there is no missing the boat with Herby’s import bottle selection ($3.50). Overlook the obligatory presence of Corona and Corona Light tonight. The modesty of that mild beer will not stand up to this revved up food. On tap or by the bottle, Dos Equis, the popular, substantial amber is the best bet with these dishes. Or, if you want something drier, try a traditional lager. Herby’s extraordinary bottle selection includes Carta Blanc, Tecate and Negra Modelo from the Yucatan, a rich, dark lager with a reddish tint and slight taste of chocolate. Armed with our second round of drinks, we were ready for the next encounter.

The special board (which can be read from a knee-high blackboard in the bar area as you enter the main dining room) displayed a Turkey Mole entree on this particular night. This time-honored dish was a "had-to-order" as its shredded turkey simmered in an interesting, complex, chile and spice-induced sauce, emitting both a smokey and nutty taste simultaneously. Hopefully, for you, a Mole dish will be featured when you visit. If not, have no fear as combination dishes are the way here, and they flourish on the menu. A good messy, Mexican mix to try is the No. 1 Combination ($7.75), featuring one mini-Chimichanga, one burrito (al pastor - shepherd-style, i.e., grilled or spit cooked), and Flautas or flutes, (two long thin tacos filled with chicken topped with sour cream, cabbage, cheese and red sauce). The No. 4 Combination ($6.25) highlights one Enchilada (a tortilla loaded with chicken, baked to a perfect light brown color, dripping with jack cheese), one taco (al a pastor), and Tostada (a large tortilla chip round topped with a medley of mashed black beans, tomatoes, cilantro, tabasco, jalapeno jack cheese served with guacamole). Get ready for the Chiles Rellenos ($6.75), where this dish of fairly mild poblano peppers filled with chihuahua cheese gets fried in a light egg batter. Patrons of Herby’s eat these peppers up so fast that the zealous chiles never get a chance to dry into their ancho reformation here. Add to one Chiles Rellenos, one Quesadilla and two potato Flautas and you tally up a Vegetarian Dish Combo ($6.99). Don’t count, however, that vegetarian amounts to anything close to reduced fat at Herby’s. Burritos ($5.95) abound with your choice of beef, chicken, bean, or vegetarian, and fajitas are not over looked either, as these delightfully sizzling hot, ready-to-wrap efforts feature a considerable amount of marinated chicken or beef ($7.25) or shrimp ($9.50), with lots of peppers and onions. A taste of the three fajita selections is offered to the hungry or indecisive for $11.25.

At dessert time, a perfect homemade flan of creamy, firm egg custard, baked with a rich caramel sauce is as delightful as the Spanish classic. Fried ice cream served in a cone-style shell and topped with an interesting crisp crunch, which proves to be a popular breakfast bran producing an uncanny taste of coconut, is a cool and enriching ending.

At Herby’s, the portions for amigos are humongous, and although fiesta time may turn into siesta time after such great genuine Mexican eats here, it is time well spent.