by Sue Barry

As Hershey dubs itself The Great American Chocolate Town, Cibo should be called The Great American Bistro. Two years ago, Cibo American Bistro, with its light and airy atmosphere and stylish and sleek decor, replaced the Copper Kettle family restaurant at the Hershey Lodge and Convention Center. Aligned with a half million-dollar contemporary renovation, classic fare with a twist, and a logo that personifies the restaurant with a smug chocolate-bestowing chap from an early 1900’s Maxfield Parrish painting, Cibo was bound to be something different and exciting.

After observing the busy chefs creating masterpieces in the open kitchen above a polished bar, my dining companions, feeling parched and famished, lingered at the glass enclosed cases displaying select domestic and imported wines and a number of captivating homemade desserts. It was a good time to ponder our selections for two of our favorite dinner rites.

As we quickly found our way to our table, soon after, so did Cibo’s warm fresh-baked rolls, followed shortly by starters. Nana’s Celestine Soup ($3.00), a double rich chicken broth with Florentine crepe ribbons floating among chicken bits, was celestial as it was unmatched by the most intense chicken broth tasted in this sphere. The versatility of the crepe raised the French staple to a higher level with this soup. Fried Mozzarella ($5.00) was next. I know, you’re saying fried mozzarella is fried mozzarella, but after trying these perfectly crisp-brown treats (complemented with pesto as well as the traditional marinara sauce) your mind will change. As salads are a la carte, I ordered the Cibo Caesar Salad ($4.50, $3.00 side, $6.60 with chicken). It was tossed with a white dressing sporting a delightful balsamic flavor instead of the typical Caesar dressing that makes use of wine vinegar for its acidity. Miraculously, this version did not come to bury Caesar - as it complemented, not overwhelmed.

Cibo American Bistro offers five pasta choices, the broadest selection of any one-entree category on the menu. That’s a good thing for those who favor a diet consistent with the broadest base of the food pyramid. The two conventional pasta dishes, Rigatoni Bolognase (semolina pasta tubes in a rich meat sauce with Italian herbs and Chianti topped with Parmesan, $7.75), and Fettuccini Primavera (basil fettuccini sautéed with garden vegetables in a traditional Alfredo sauce, $8.00) were overshadowed by a Wild Mushroom Ravioli ($12.50). The flavorful ravioli was served with a sumptuous combination of broccoli, roasted peppers, pine nuts, Kalamata olives and grilled chicken in creamy parmesan pesto sauce. (It appeared that the entire food pyramid was included in this dish!) The Shrimp Scampi with Basil Fettuccini ($11.50) featuring large shrimp sautéed in roasted garlic, white wine and virgin olive oil with fresh tomatoes and Italian parsley - proves that good ingredients speak for themselves.

The Swordfish au Poivre ($14.50), a delightful peppered center-cut swordfish wrapped with smoked salmon in cognac sauce was incredible. This dish was a test. When even the best and freshest swordfish has a tendency to dry out, Cibo’s swordfish passed with flying colors. Moist and tender, the combination of flavors exhilarated the taste buds, with the sauce adding harmony. Like many restaurants serving contemporary cuisine, fish is being paired with what used to be traditional side dishes for meat. Case in point - Cibo serves the swordfish with garlic basil mashed potatoes. While the kelly green color may take you aback, the flavor of these spuds is blended well, with the garlic intensity unusually subtle. A Mesquite Marinated Grilled Salmon Fillet ($12.50) was served atop rice pilaf along with a grilled vegetable brochette. A Creole barbecue sauce was presented next to the salmon allowing you to douse or use sparingly on the fillet. This dish made me glad that those fresh water spawners that occupied the planet with the dinosaurs somehow circumvented extinction. Other entrees included grilled New York Strip Steak ($16.00) and Filet Mignon ($18.00 - $21.50) with red-wine demi-glace, and a Mixed Grill (petit fillet, marinated chicken breast and shrimp, $16.50). Yet another treat was the Gulf Coast Chicken ($13.50), a lobster-tail stuffed chicken breast which is topped with shiitake ginger cream sauce. All dishes were attractively garnished and presented, but not overdone to distract.

Being friendly and unpretentious, service on this particular night was exquisite. Our waitress quickly confiscated a faulty wineglass before any of us even saw the flaw. The pace of courses was well executed and the waitress’ return visits to the table were well timed.

In addition to the rolls, desserts are also fresh-baked. As at other restaurants in Hershey, it is no surprise that Cibo’s desserts feature chocolate as their main ingredient. Both a Chocolate Chip Cheesecake that was light, yet rich, and a slice of Chocolate Sauvignon ($4.50) with a mousse-consistency, served to cure that chocolate urge that everyone gets in The Great American Chocolate Town.

Location
Easy to Find

Parking
Self-serve

Handicapped Access
Entranceway

Exterior Appearance
Impecable

Initial Interior
Double door foyer

Reservations Necessary
No

Preferred Dining Attire
Neat & Clean

Wait (to be seated)
None

Wait (for service)
None

Lighting
Subtle

Meal-time Music
Subdued

Dining Area Appearance
Looked brand new

Noise
Light Chatter

Climate
Fine

Tables
Standard

Chairs
Comfortable

Booths
Seats four

Table Setting
Full with cloth napkins

Your Meal
Entree from Dinner Menu

Appetizers
Creative Selection

Salads
House

Dressings
House Specialty

Vegetables
House Specialty

Desserts
Made in-house

Coffees
Cappuccinp/Espresso

Staff Attitude
Friendly

Staff Appearance
Company Logowear

Hospitality
Felt at Home

Cleanliness
Excellent

Wash Rooms
Exceptional

Crowd (Qty)
Busy

Crowd (Attitude)
Casual/Laughter

Food (portions)
Satisfied

Food (prices)
Fair

Overall Service
Attentive

Payment Accepted
Visa/Master Card/Cash

Banquet Facilities
Private Available